If you asked hikers and campers about the least favorite things about their trips, mosquitoes would definitely be near the top of the list. No one wants to be itchy and inflamed all over, and these tiny pests seem to have an uncanny ability to find us no matter where we’re hiding.

When you’re packing your camping gear, don’t forget to include mosquito repellent! No one wants to be dealing with mosquitoes while they’re trying to enjoy the great outdoors. Luckily, there are a variety of mosquito repellents available that can help keep these pests at bay.

Why it’s important to repel mosquitoes

Believe it or not, mosquitoes are found to be one of the world’s deadliest animals. These small, pesky insects transmit dangerous diseases such as malaria, Zika virus, and dengue fever. In fact, according to the World Health Organization (WHO), vector-borne diseases, transmitted by mosquitoes among other insects, are responsible for the death of nearly 700,000 people each year.

With such high stakes, it’s important to take measures to protect yourself from these disease-carrying pests. Luckily, there is plenty of ways to do so. In this article, we’ll list some of the best mosquito repellents for camping to keep in mind for your next trip into the great outdoors.

What is a mosquito repellent?

A mosquito repellent is a substance that you apply to your skin, clothing, or gear that helps keep mosquitoes from landing on you and biting you. These products usually contain chemicals that mosquitoes find offensive, such as DEET, picaridin, and lemon eucalyptus oil.

In addition to chemical, or natural repellents, there are also mosquito repelling devices, such as bracelets, fans, and even lanterns that can help keep these pests at bay.

Here at Northwest Outlet you can find a selection of insect repellent products, from mosquito repellent devices, DEET pump sprays to head nets.

Mosquito Repellents for Camping

Mosquito repellent bracelets

Mosquito repellent bracelets are a popular and convenient way to keep mosquitoes away. These bracelets usually contain natural mosquito-repellent oils, such as citronella, lemongrass, or eucalyptus oil. They are especially convenient for kids, who may not be able to apply mosquito repellent to their skin properly.

Insect repellents for clothing

Clothing treated with permethrin, an insecticide, can also help keep mosquitoes at bay. You can buy clothing that has already been treated with permethrin or treat your own clothing with a spray-on repellent. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product label carefully.

Repellent creams and sprays for body

The most common type of mosquito repellent is a cream or spray that you apply to your skin. These products usually contain DEET, picaridin, or lemon eucalyptus oil. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product label carefully and reapply as needed.

Hammock nets

If you’re planning to sleep in a hammock, be sure to bring along a mosquito net. These nets can be placed over the hammock to create a barrier between you and the mosquitoes.

Head nets and Bug jackets

Have you ever seen a beekeeper in their gear? They’re wearing a head net and a full bee suit to keep the bees from getting to their skin. While you don’t need to be quite that protected, head nets and bug jackets can help keep mosquitoes off of your skin. These products are especially great if you’re going to be in an area with a lot of mosquitoes, such as a marsh or swamp.

Head nets are like a veil that you can wear over your head to keep mosquitoes from getting to your face. Bug jackets are cloaks that you can wear over your clothing to create a barrier between you and the insects.

Lanterns

There are also mosquito repellent lanterns available that help keep these pests at bay. These lanterns usually contain a small fan that circulates the air and a mosquito-repellent cartridge.

Mosquito coils

Mosquito coils are another popular way to keep mosquitoes away. These coils are made of mosquito-repellent chemicals that are burned in a small, metal holder. The smoke from the burning coil helps keep mosquitoes away.

Mosquito repellent devices

A mosquito repellent device is a great alternative if you don’t want to have your skin coated in bug repellent. There is a variety of mosquito repellent devices available that can help keep these pests at bay. These devices usually contain a small fan that circulates the air and a mosquito-repellent cartridge.

For example, the ThermaCell E55 has proven to be quite effective at repelling mosquitoes.  It has a rechargeable five-and-a-half-hour battery that lasts long enough to odorlessly keep a bedroom-sized area mosquito-free for an entire evening. Heat for the lithium ion battery activates the highly targeted repellent, allethrin, a synthetic copy of a repellent found naturally in chrysanthemum flowers.

Mosquito repellent aerosol spray

This type of mosquito repellent is a great choice if you want something that you can easily apply to your skin. These products usually contain DEET, picaridin, or lemon eucalyptus oil. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product label carefully and reapply as needed.

Candles and torches

Citronella candles and torches are a great way to keep mosquitoes away. These candles and torches usually contain citronella oil, which is a natural mosquito repellent. Be sure to place the candles and torches around the perimeter of your campsite to create a barrier against these pests. Some people may find the smell of citronella oil too harsh, so be sure to test it out before using it.

Which compounds keep mosquitoes away?

DEET

DEET is the most common and effective mosquito repellent. It’s been used since the 1940s and is still one of the best ways to keep mosquitoes away. DEET works by masking the scent of human skin, making it harder for mosquitoes to find you.

Picaridin

Picaridin, also known as icaridin, is another effective mosquito repellent that is growing in popularity. It’s also been found to be effective against ticks, fleas, and other pests. Picaridin works by interfering with the mosquitoes’ sense of smell, making it harder for them to find you.

Lemon and eucalyptus oil

Lemon and eucalyptus oils are a natural mosquito repellents that can be just as effective as DEET and picaridin. The oil works by masking the scent of human skin and repelling mosquitoes.

Natural mosquito repellents

There are a number of natural mosquito repellents that can be just as effective as DEET and picaridin. These natural repellents usually contain essential oils, such as lemon eucalyptus oil, lemongrass oil, or citronella oil.

Essential Oils

Essential oils are a natural way to keep mosquitoes away. These oils usually contain compounds that mosquitoes find offensive, such as citronella, lemongrass, or eucalyptus oil.

You can buy essential oils at most health food stores or online. Be sure to dilute the oils before applying them to your skin.

Mosquito repelling plants

There are also a number of plants that can help keep mosquitoes away. These plants usually contain essential oils that repel mosquitoes. Some of the best mosquito repelling plants include: lemon balm, lemongrass, eucalyptus, lavender, basil, peppermint, garlic.

Tips to Keep Mosquitoes Away from Your Camp

Prevent mosquito bites

In addition to using mosquito repellent, there are other things you can do to prevent mosquito bites. These include wearing long sleeves and pants, staying in well-ventilated areas, and avoiding being outdoors during peak mosquito hours (dusk to dawn). Use mosquito nets to cover your bed and any other areas where mosquitoes might be able to get to you.

Keep your campsite clean

Another way to reduce the mosquito population around your camp is to keep your campsite clean. This means disposing of any garbage and food scraps properly. It also means picking up any loose leaves or branches where mosquitoes might lay their eggs.

Reduce standing water

Mosquitoes lay their eggs in standing water. So, one of the best things you can do to reduce the mosquito population around your camp is to eliminate any standing water. This includes removing any stagnant water from flowerpots, buckets, birdbaths, and gutters. If you can’t remove the water, consider covering it with a screen to keep mosquitoes from laying their eggs.

Put up mosquito traps

Mosquito traps are devices that attract mosquitoes and then trap them so they can’t bite you. These traps usually use CO2, heat, or light to attract mosquitoes and then capture them in a net or on a sticky pad.

While mosquito traps won’t completely eliminate all the mosquitoes in an area, they can help reduce the number of bites you get. However, have in mind that the traps are not nearly as effective as repellents.

Mosquito repellent FAQ

How to apply mosquito repellent

When applying mosquito repellent, be sure to follow the instructions on the product label. In general, you will want to apply the repellent to any exposed skin, such as your arms and legs. You may also want to apply it to your clothing.

Be sure to avoid contact with your eyes and mouth, and wash your hands after applying the repellent. If you are using a spray-on repellent, be sure to apply it in a well-ventilated area.

When to use mosquito repellent

You will want to use mosquito repellent any time you are outdoors in an area where there are mosquitoes. This is especially important during the summer months, when mosquitoes are most active.

You may also want to use repellent if you are traveling to a country where there is a risk of mosquito-borne diseases, such as malaria or dengue fever.

How long does mosquito repellent last?

The length of time that mosquito repellent will last depends on the type of repellent you are using. Chemical repellents, such as DEET and picaridin, usually last for several hours. Natural repellents, such as lemon eucalyptus oil, may need to be applied more frequently.

What are the side effects of mosquito repellents?

Most mosquito repellents are safe for most people when used as directed. However, some people may experience skin irritation or other side effects. If you have any concerns, be sure to speak with your doctor before using repellent.

What is the best mosquito repellent?

The best mosquito repellent is the one that works best for you. There are many different types of repellents available, so be sure to find one that is right for your needs. DEET and picaridin are two of the most common and effective chemical repellents. Lemon eucalyptus oil is a popular natural repellent.

When it comes to mosquito repellents, there are a variety of options to choose from. DEET and picaridin are two of the most common and effective chemical repellents. Lemon eucalyptus oil is a popular natural repellent. You will want to use mosquito repellent any time you are outdoors in an area where there are mosquitoes. This is especially important during the summer months, when mosquitoes are most active. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid contact with your eyes and mouth.

That’s it, everything you need to know about mosquito repellents for camping! Do you have any tips to share? Don’t hesitate to let us know.

When we think of camping, the first thought is camping tents. However, there is an increasing trend of hammock camping. Hammock camping, also known as hanging camping, means to use a hammock instead of a tent when camping outdoors. This type of camping has many benefits. For one, a hammock is much lighter and easier to carry than a tent. It also doesn’t require any poles, which makes it even more convenient. And, you don’t have to worry about finding level ground to set up your hammock. You can simply find two trees and you’re good to go!

What is hammock camping?

Hammock camping is a form of camping where campers sleep in hammocks instead of tents. Camping hammocks are used by campers who are looking for lighter weight, protection from ground-dwelling insects, or other ground complications such as sloped ground, rocky terrain and flooded terrain.

Types of camping hammocks

Parachute hammock

A parachute hammock is a popular hammock type made from ripstop nylon. These hammocks are ultralight and portable, making them a great option for backpacking or camping.

Flat Lay hammock

This type of hammock has a flat bottom, allowing you to lie down flat on your back or stomach. This makes them more comfortable for sleeping in than other hammock types. Flat Lay hammocks like the Haven hammock combine the best of sleeping suspended in the air and sleeping in a tent.

Ridgeline hammock

A ridgeline hammock is similar to a flat lay hammock but has a ridgeline running along the top of the hammock. This helps to keep the fabric taut, making it more comfortable to lie in.

Two person hammock

Two person hammocks are great for couples or friends who want to camp together. They are larger than single person hammocks and can accommodate two people comfortably. They are also called double hammocks, unlike single hammocks that are designed for one person.

Three person hammock

Three person hammocks are designed to accommodate three people. They are larger than two person hammocks and can be used by families or groups of friends who want to camp together.

Hammock Tent

A hammock tent is a type of hammock that has a built-in mosquito net and rain fly. This makes them ideal for camping in areas where there are insects or inclement weather.

What is a hammock tent?

A hammock tent is a, just as the name suggests, hybrid between a hammock and a tent. It usually includes a hammock, mosquito netting, a tarp for rain protection, and a suspension system to hang it all. Along with providing shelter, this system is incredibly durable and lightweight, so you can easily pack it up and carry it as you explore the outdoors.

Is a hammock tent the same as a hanging tent?

Yes and no. A hammock tent is a type of hanging tent, but not all hanging tents are hammock tents. Hanging tents can be made from a variety of materials, such as canvas or nylon, and they don’t always include a mosquito net or rain fly.

What do you need for hammock camping

Here is a list of essentials that you will need for hammock camping:

Hammock

One of the most important things you need for hammock camping is, of course, a hammock! There are many different types and styles of hammocks available on the market. Parachute nylon hammocks are popular because they’re ultralight and portable. However, if you’re looking for more comfort, you may want to opt for a flat lay or ridgeline hammock.

Hanging system

In order to set up your hammock, you’re going to need a hanging system. This usually consists of two straps that attach to trees or other sturdy objects. The straps should be made of high-quality material that can support your weight, such as polyester or nylon.

Mosquito net

If you’re planning on camping in an area where there are mosquitoes or other insects, it’s a good idea to bring along a mosquito net. These nets can be attached to your hammock and will keep bugs out while you sleep.

Rain fly

A rain fly is a tarp that can be placed over your hammock to protect you from the rain. If you’re expecting inclement weather, it’s a good idea to bring along a rain fly.

A backpack or a bag

Last but not least, you’re going to need a bag to pack everything up in. A backpack is a great option because it will allow you to easily carry your hammock camping gear.

How to set up a hammock for camping?

Derek Hansen form The Ultimate Hang created an illustration to help people understand the basics of hanging a hammock for camping. You can find it here, along with plenty of useful tips and first-hand experiences of hammock camping.

Tips for hammock camping

Now that you know the basics of setting up a camp hammock, here are some tips to help you make the most of your experience:

1. Choose the right spot

When you’re choosing a spot to set up your hammock, it’s important to find two trees that are the right distance apart. The general rule is that the trees should be about 15 to 20 feet apart. However, this may vary depending on the type of hammock you have.

2. Set up your mosquito net first

If you’re using a mosquito net, it’s a good idea to set it up first. This will help to keep bugs out while you’re setting up the rest of your hammock.

3. Use a hanging system

A hanging system will make it much easier to set up your hammock. It will also help to distribute your weight evenly, which will make your hammock more comfortable to lie in.

4. Take weather into account

If you’re expecting bad weather, it’s a good idea to bring along a rain fly. This will help to protect you from the rain and keep you dry while you sleep.

5. Be prepared for the worst

Even if you’re careful, accidents can happen. That’s why it’s always a good idea to be prepared for the worst. Bring along a first-aid kit and make sure you know how to use it

Reasons why sleeping in a hammock is great

Hammock camping is a great way to enjoy the outdoors while getting a good night’s sleep. Here are some benefits of hammocking:

You can sleep anywhere – Hammocks don’t require level ground like tents do, so you can camp in places that tents can’t go.

Hammocks are lighter and take up less space – A hammock, tarp, and mosquito net weigh less than a tent, so they’re great for backpacking or ultralight camping.

Hammocks are more comfortable – Hammocks allow you to sleep in a variety of positions and can be more comfortable than sleeping on the ground without a thick mattress.

Hammocks offer protection from bugs and rain – Hammock tents have built-in mosquito netting and can be used with a tarp for rain protection.

You can camp in places you couldn’t before – With a hammock, you can camp in places where there are no trees, like on a beach or in the desert.

It’s better for the environment – Most hammocks attach to trees via removable webbing straps, or “tree-huggers,” which do not damage the bark and leave little or no marks afterward. Often used campsite is easily recognizable because of the effect on the grass, scrub and topsoil

Can you sleep in a hammock in cold weather?

Yes, you can definitely go hammock camping in the winter. In fact, many people find that hammocks are more comfortable in cold weather than sleeping in a tent since you’re not on the cold, hard ground. If you camp in a hammock in winter, you need to take extra steps to stay warm. Having an underquilt to insulate the hammock, a sleeping pad and a sleeping bag will ensure that you stay warm all night long.

Hammock vs tent – which one to choose?

Hammocks are a great option for ultralight camping and backpacking, but tents have their advantages too. Ultimately, it’s up to you to decide which option is best for your needs.

Pick a hammock if you :

• Need a lighter and more compact sleeping solution
• Want to camp in places where there are no trees
• Want to sleep in a more comfortable position
• Hate feeling cramped up in a small tent

Pick a tent if you:

• Want more privacy
• Prefer to sleep on the ground
• Need to accommodate more than one person
• You are camping in a place where there is no trees, like on the beach or in the desert.

Best camping hammock brands

Hennessy

Hennessy Hammocks is a company that specializes in hammocks. They offer a variety of different types, including ultralight and double hammocks. Their founder, industrial designer Tom Hennessy, aimed to combine a life-long love of hammocks with a passion for innovation. In the more than 60 years Tom has been sleeping in hammocks, he has even been picked up by a tornado in his hammock and another time hit by a shock wave of wind and water after a very close lightning strike at sea while sleeping in his hammock.

Their most popular products are the Explorer Deluxe and the Safari Deluxe. The Explorer is a great option for ultralight backpackers, while the Safari is perfect for those who want a bit more room to move around.

The downside of Hennessy hammocks is that they are quite expensive compared to some other brands. If you are willing to spurge on a top-notch hammock tent, you could opt for Hennessy, but if you are on a budget, don worry. There are very high quality camping hammock that cost less, like the Grand Trunk.

Grand Trunk

The Grand Trunk adventure began in 2001 when two intrepid entrepreneurs met backpacking through Thailand. Their shared passion for exploring and living the outdoor lifestyle led to the Chicago-based company’s first line of travel hammocks.

Grand Trunk Skeeter Beeter XT

Grand Trunk Air Bivy All Weather Shelter

Trunk Tech Double Hammock

Their line of products includes the Mozzy Lite, the Double Deluxe Parachute Nylon, and the Single Parachute Hammock. The Mozzy Lite is their lightest and most compact hammock, making it perfect for ultralight backpackers. The Double Deluxe is made from durable nylon and can hold up to 400 pounds.

Eagles Nest Outfitters (ENO)

ENO is another company that specializes in hammocks. They offer a variety of different styles, like the single, double, and triple hammocks. Their products are made from high-quality materials, such as nylon and polyester.

ENO’s most popular product is the DoubleNest Hammock. This hammock is made from durable nylon and can accommodate two people. It’s also available in a variety of different colors, so you can choose the one that best suits your style.

Kammok

In 2010, Greg McEvily founded Kammok and designed their flagship Roo Double hammock. Kammok hammocks are made for outdoor adventurers, by outdoor adventurers. Today, Kammok designs technical and functional gear for spending time outside, from basecamp to backcountry. The Kammock Roo hammock is still the company’s most popular product, but Kammok has also expanded their offerings to include sleeping gear, camping shelters, and more.

Tentsile

Tentsile is a British company that designs and manufactures tree tents and other camping gear. Their products are made to be as sustainable as possible, using recycled materials whenever possible. Tentsile’s most popular product is the Stingray tree tent, which can accommodate up to three people.

Whether you were a hammock camping enthusiast before, or this article’s just convinced you, Northwest Outdoors offers a varied selection of hammocks and camping and sleeping gear. We carry a wide variety of hammocks, from ultralight backpacking models to family-sized ones. Browse our online store and start planning your next hammock camping adventure!

Almost all hiking boots are waterproofed out of the box, because come with a factory-applied durable water repellency treatment (or DWR treatment for short) on them. However, this treatment does not last forever and will eventually wear off. You’ll know it’s time to re-waterproof your boots when they start to feel wet and soggy inside, or if the water beads up on the surface instead of beading off.

There are many products on the market designed specifically for waterproofing boots, but you have to be aware that even the best product won’t work if you don’t use it right. That is why we made this guide on how to properly waterproof your hiking boots or shoes.

Waterproofing hiking boots: step-by-step

Each material requires a different approach when waterproofing. We’ll go over different types of hiking boots and take to the process of waterproofing them.

How to waterproof leather boots?

The most common and durable type of hiking boot is made out of leather. Leather is a natural material that is both flexible and strong, making it an ideal choice for footwear that needs to take a beating.

To waterproof your leather boots, you’ll need to use a waterproofing cream or wax. These products work by creating a barrier on the surface of the leather that repels water.

Step 1: Take out the laces and clean the boots

Step 2: Apply the leather waterproofing product

Nubuck and suede boots waterproofing

Though materials like nubuck and suede are rarely found on hiking boots, it’s good to know that you can waterproof them as well.

Step 1: Choose the right product

There are many waterproofing products on the market, but not all of them are created equal. Some are designed specifically for nubuck and suede, while others can be used on any type of footwear. Be sure to read the labels carefully to make sure you’re using the right product for your boots.

This Danner waterproofing spray is perfect for nubuck, suede and rough-out leathers. It is also safe for fabrics like nylon and Cordura.

Step 2: Prepare the boots

Before you start waterproofing, it’s important to make sure your boots are clean and free of any dirt or debris. The best way to do this is to brush them with a soft bristled brush, followed by a damp cloth. Allow them to air dry completely before you start waterproofing.

Step 3: Apply the waterproofing agent

Most waterproofing agents come in a spray bottle, which makes it easy to apply evenly. Start by spraying a light layer on the boots, paying special attention to the seams. Once the entire boot is covered, let it sit for the time specified on the product label.

Step 4: Repeat

After the initial layer has dried, apply a second layer to be sure your boots are fully waterproofed. Remember, it’s always better to err on the side of too much waterproofing than not enough.

Step 5: Allow the boots to dry

Once you’ve applied the second layer, let the boots dry in a well-ventilated area. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can cause the leather to crack.

How to waterproof Gore-Tex boots – step by step

Gore-tex is a waterproof and breathable material that is often used in hiking boots. Though it does a great job of keeping your feet dry, it’s not invincible. Over time, the Gore-tex membrane can become clogged with dirt and debris, which reduces its ability to breathe. This can lead to sweaty and uncomfortable feet. Here is what to do when your Gore-tex hiking boots need some tlc:

Step 1: Clean the boots

The first step is to clean the boots, both inside and out. Start by removing the laces and any removable liners or insoles. Then, brush away any dirt or debris from the surface of the boot. Next, use a mild soap and water solution to clean the inside of the boot. Allow everything to air dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Step 2: Apply a Gore-tex waterproofing spray

There are many Gore-tex waterproofing sprays on the market, so be sure to read the labels carefully to find one that is compatible with your boots. Most of these products work by creating a barrier on the surface of the Gore-tex that repels water.

To apply the spray, start by putting on a pair of gloves. Then, holding the boot upside down, evenly spray the entire surface of the boot. Allow the boot to dry for the time specified on the product label.

Step 3: Reapply as needed

Depending on how often you wear your boots, you may need to reapply the waterproofing spray every few months. If you notice that your boots are no longer repelling water as well as they used to, it’s time for a fresh coat.

How long does waterproofing last on hiking boots?

The answer to this question depends on a few factors, including the type of waterproofing product you use and how often you wear your boots. In general, most waterproofing sprays will last for several months. If you find that your boots are no longer repelling water as well as they used to, it’s time to reapply the waterproofing spray.

How often you should waterproof hiking boots?

This answer also depends on a few factors, including the type of waterproofing product you use and how often you wear your boots. In general, most waterproofing sprays need to be applied every few months. If you find that your boots are no longer repelling water as well as they used to, it’s time to reapply the waterproofing spray.

Can You Waterproof Shoes and Boots with WD40?

WD40 is a popular multi-purpose product that can be used for a variety of tasks, including waterproofing leather shoes and boots. The product works by creating a barrier on the surface of the shoe or boot that repels water. Though this is not the ideal waterproofing product, it can be used in a pinch.

To waterproof your shoes or boots with WD40, start by removing the laces and any removable liners or insoles. Then, brush away any dirt or debris from the surface of the shoe or boot. Next, use a clean cloth to evenly apply WD40 to the entire surface of the shoe or boot. Allow the shoe or boot to dry for at least 30 minutes before wearing.

Keep in mind that WD40 is not a long-term solution for waterproofing your shoes or boots. The product will need to be reapplied every few months. In addition, WD40 can damage some materials, so be sure to test it on a small area of the shoe or boot before proceeding. Also, WD40 tends to make the leather of your boots look darker, so keep that in mind when using it.

Waterproofing boots: final thoughts

Waterproofing your boots is a simple and effective way to keep them in good condition, no matter the weather. By following the steps outlined above, you can keep your boots looking and feeling great for years to come. When it’s time for getting a new pair, take look at our considerable collection of hiking boots and shoes by top brands like Merrel, Keen, and Danner. Northwest Outlet has the best prices all year round!

For people who love the outdoors, combining parenting with their passion for hiking, backpacking, or other outdoor activities may be a challenge. But hiking with a baby is possible, and many families find that getting outside together is a great way to spend time together.

Babies love being outside, breathing fresh air, exploring the world around them. Hiking with a baby can be a beautiful and exciting experience. All you need is the right mindset and some planning.

When can you start taking your baby on hikes?

You can start taking your infant on hikes as soon as you feel comfortable. Some parents wait until their baby is a few months old, while others start sooner. Ultimately, it’s up to you and how you feel. Babies are born ready, as long as they are near mommy or daddy, comfortable and well-fed, they can enjoy the family adventure.

A good baby carrier is the essential No.1

A good baby carrier can make all the difference when hiking with a baby. The carrier should be comfortable for both you and your baby. It should also have good back support and straps that distribute the weight evenly. Your hands need to be free to navigate the trail and your baby needs to be close to you, snuggled in tight.

There are many different types of carriers on the market, so it’s important to find one that suits your needs. Some parents prefer soft-structured carriers, while others find wraps or slings more comfortable.

Types of baby carriers

Wrap Carrier / Ring Sling

These are long pieces of fabric that you wrap around your body and secure with a knot or rings. They are often adjustable, so you can make them tighter or looser as needed. They distribute the weight evenly and can be very comfortable for long hikes. They are suitable for newborns.

Soft-Structured Buckle Carrier

These have straps that go around your shoulders and waist, with a buckle in the middle. They often have a built-in sunshade and some have pockets for storage. They are easy to put on and take off and can be adjusted to fit different body types. These carriers are suitable for infants and toddlers.

Meh Dai (Mei Tai) Carrier

This is a type of soft-structured carrier that has four straps – two that go over your shoulders and two that tie around your waist. They are adjustable and can be made to fit different body types. The straps can be tied in different ways to adjust the fit and position of your baby. These carriers are suitable for infants and toddlers.

Backpack Carriers

This type of baby carriers is designed for wearing like a backpack and it can be used only for children who can sit unassisted and have good neck control.

Usually, backpack carriers have padded shoulder straps and additional straps that you should fasten around your waist and chest. It’s not only more secure for the baby this way, but also helps with proper weight distribution.

Backpack carriers are useful for wearing the baby for longer period. Some of them are designed for hiking, walking in the woods, etc. If you want your toddler or preschooler to keep you company during exploring outdoors, this is the best and most comfortable solution.

Tips for hiking with a baby

Plan your hikes

The first time you go hiking with your baby, it’s best to stick to shorter and easier trails. You can gradually increase the distance and difficulty as you both get more comfortable.

It’s also important to plan your hikes in advance. Check the weather forecast and pack accordingly. Bring plenty of snacks and drinks for both you and your baby and make sure you have a first-aid kit.

Make sure you’re prepared before you set off and that you know the route well. This will help you relax and enjoy the hike more. Organizations like Hike It Baby offer help for new parents and organize a wide variety of events, including trail hikes and urban strolls.

Take brakes

Hiking with a baby is different from hiking alone or with other adults. You’ll need to take more breaks and go at a slower pace. It’s important to listen to your body and your baby’s cues. If either of you is getting tired, take a break.

Don’t push it

It’s about the journey, not the destination. Babies always throw wrenches into the best-laid plans so lower your expectations and don’t be disappointed when you don’t make it to the top.

Be prepared to embrace the good, the bad, and the ugly

It’s not all cuddles and giggles, things can get tough at times. Here is a video by Danielle, an outdoorsy mom that goes into detail about everything you can expect on a hike with your little one:

How to dress your baby (and yourself) for a hike?

The key to comfortable hiking is layering. This way, you can easily take off or put on layers as the temperature changes.

For babies, it’s best to dress them in one more layer than what you would normally wear. They will probably get hot while hiking, so you can always take off a layer if needed.

For example, if it’s cool outside, you could dress your baby in a base layer, a warm layer, and a wind- or rain-resistant outer layer. If it’s hot, you might only need the base and outer layers.

Protect your baby from the sun and insects

Babies that young need to be kept out of direct sunlight as much as possible. If the sun is unavoidable, sunscreen is safe – in small amounts – for babies under 6 months. Bug repellent isn’t recommended for children younger than 2 months, so it’s best to keep your infant covered with clothes and a hat. A thin muslin cloth is an excellent sun and bug protector.

When it’s raining

Make sure you’re prepared for all kinds of weather conditions before you set off. When it’s raining, a waterproof babywearing jacket is a huge help. While they do come with a price tag, babywearing jackets allow you to take the guesswork out of keeping both you and baby warm. Many have both front and back carrying options, so it can grow with the baby as they get big enough for a back carry.  While babywearing, you will inevitably transfer some of your heat to the baby. This can reduce the number of layers needed for both the baby and the adult wearing them.

What to pack for a hike with a baby?

In addition to the items you would normally pack for a hike, such as snacks, water, and a first-aid kit, there are some other things you’ll need to bring when hiking with a baby.

Here is a list of items that might come in handy:

• Extra clothes for both you and your baby – in case of spills, accidents, or changes in the weather
• Diapers and wipes
• A blanket or towel – for sitting on, picnicking, or in case of an emergency
• A carrier or sling – for babywearing
• Sunscreen and hats – to protect you and your baby from the sun
• Bug spray – to keep pesky bugs away
• Water and snacks – to keep you and your baby fueled for the hike
• A first-aid kit – in case of any minor injuries
• A camera – to capture all the memories!
• Extra bags for trash/ dirty diapers

How far can you go with your baby?

In general, it’s best to stick to shorter hikes when hiking with a baby. They can be unpredictable and you never know when you might need to turn around.

If you’re new to hiking with a baby, start with an easy trail that you’re familiar with. As you become more comfortable, you can try longer or more difficult hikes.

Newborns

Provided that you have recovered from giving birth and you feel ready, you can start taking short walks with your baby from a couple of weeks old. It’s best if you schedule a hike during your baby’s nap time, so all of you can get the most out of it.

3-6 months

At this age, your baby is starting to become more aware of their surroundings and can start to participate in activities such as hiking.

Make sure you go at a slow pace and take plenty of breaks. If you’re carrying your baby in a carrier, it’s best to use one that offers support for their head and neck.

6-12 months

By this age, your baby is probably crawling or even starting to walk. They’re also probably eating solid food, which means they can have snacks on the hike.

If your baby is old enough to walk, let them explore a bit, but be sure to keep a close eye on them. You can even let them crawl around in a safe area while you take a break.

1-2 years

At this age, your toddler is probably full of energy and might not want to stay in the carrier for long. If possible, choose a hike that has plenty of stops along the way so they can run around and explore.

Make sure you bring snacks and drinks to keep them fueled and hydrated. And as always, keep a close eye on them.

Can you go on a hike with a stroller?

Babywearing is for most a better option for hiking, but you can go on a hike with a stroller if the path is even and not too rocky.

If you do decide to take a stroller on a trail, make sure it’s one that’s designed for off-road use. And be prepared to carry your baby (and all of your gear) if the going gets tough.

Benefits of hiking with your newborn

There are many benefits to hiking with your newborn, both for you and your baby.

For you, it can be a great way to get some fresh air and exercise after giving birth. It can also help you bond with your baby and give you some time to relax away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

For your baby, hiking can help them develop their muscles and coordination. It’s also a great way for them to get some fresh air and explore the world around them.

Taking care of a newborn baby can be stressful, and going on a hike will allow you to get some fresh air and maybe also a fresh perspective.

Bonding with nature from an early age will help your baby develop a love and appreciation for the outdoors, which is something that will benefit them throughout their life. Raising a generation that has true love and appreciation for nature would be great for our beautiful planet.

Hiking with a baby can be a great way to get some fresh air and spend time together. With a little planning and preparation, you can make sure both you and your baby have a safe and enjoyable hike.

Whether on a jacket, pants, or backpack, pockets make traveling easier. They provide a place to store necessary items so that they are easy to find and keep your hands free. A backpack with a lot of compartments is a great option for travelers, as it allows you to keep all of your belongings organized and together.This type of backpack can also come in handy for everyday use. If you are looking for a good multi pocket backpack, read on for some of our top picks.

Why we love backpacks with lots of pockets

While you should not choose a backpack purely based on the number of compartments it has, it is an important factor to consider. Here are the top three reasons why you should always look for a backpack with compartments:

1. They keep everything organized– When you have a lot of pockets on your backpack, you can easily organize all of your belongings. This makes finding what you need much easier, especially when you are in a hurry.

2. They are perfect for traveling– A backpack with multiple compartments is ideal for travelers. You can store everything you need in one place, which makes packing and unpacking a lot simpler.

3. They are great for everyday use– A backpack with multiple pockets can also be useful for everyday use. This is especially true if you like to keep your belongings organized.

Multi-pocket backpacks – our top picks

The North Face Recon

The iconic Recon backpack is redesigned for the new era. It is a 30L backpack that can fit everything you need for a day on the trail or in the city. This backpack has a plethora of pockets, including a front organizational pocket, side water bottle pockets, and a hidden security pocket. Thanks to its FlexVent suspension system, padded back panel, and padded shoulder straps, the Recon backpack is comfortable to wear.

The North Face is one of those brands known for their quality. The Recon backpack is made of 100% recycled materials that are very durable, so you can be sure that it will last a long time.

Under Armour Hustle 5.0

The Under Armour Hustle 5.0 backpack is a versatile option that can be used for school, work, or travel. This backpack has a 33L capacity and multiple compartments, including a front organizational pocket and a side water bottle pocket. The Hustle 5.0 backpack also features a padded laptop sleeve that can fit up to a 15” laptop.

The Under Armour Hustle 5.0 is made of water-resistant materials, so it will protect your belongings in case of a rainstorm. The shoulder straps are also adjustable and padded, so you can wear this backpack for long periods of time without experiencing any discomfort. Shop Under Armour products on Northwest Outlet.

Osprey Farpoint 40

The Osprey Farpoint 40 is a travel backpack that is perfect for weekend getaways or longer trips. This backpack has a 38L capacity, which is just enough to fit everything you need without being too bulky. The Farpoint 40 also has multiple compartments and pockets, including a front panel organizational pocket and a zippered back panel security pocket. This backpack comes with a detachable daypack, which is perfect for carrying your essentials around town.

The Osprey Farpoint 40 is made of durable materials that can withstand a lot of wear and tear. The shoulder straps are adjustable so that you can find the perfect fit. This backpack also comes with a sternum strap and hip belt to help distribute the weight evenly.

Tom Bihn Synapse 19

The Tom Bihn Synapse 19 backpack is perfect for everyday use or travel. This backpack has a capacity of 19L, which is just enough to fit your essentials without being too bulky. The Synapse 19 also comes with a variety of pockets and compartments, including a zippered front pocket, side water bottle pockets, and an internal organization pocket. This backpack is made of durable materials that can withstand a lot of wear and tear. The shoulder straps are adjustable so that you can find the perfect fit.

Types of backpack pockets

Inside compartments

These are great for holding items that you want to keep separate from the rest of your belongings. For example, you could use an inside compartment to store your passport, boarding pass, and other travel documents. Additionally, inside compartments are perfect for holding items that you want to keep hidden away, such as your wallet or money.

Outside compartments

These are ideal for holding items that you need easy access to, such as snacks, drinks, or a map. They can be used to store larger items, such as a jacket or umbrella.

Kangaroo pockets

These are pockets that are located on the front of the backpack. They are perfect for holding items that you need to grab quickly, such as your keys, or a snack. Kangaroo pockets are also great for storing items that you want to keep warm, such as a scarf or hat.

Water bottle holder

These are specially designed pockets that can hold water bottles, cup, or cans. They are usually located on the side of the backpack and have a closure to prevent items from falling out.

Side pockets

These are pockets that are located on the sides of the backpack. They are perfect for holding smaller items, such as sunglasses. Additionally, side pockets can be used to store larger items, such as a book or map.

Accessories pouch

This is a small pocket that is located on the front of the backpack. It is perfect for holding smaller items, such as headphones or a phone charger.

Laptop sleeve

This is a special compartment that is designed to hold a laptop. It is usually located on the inside of the backpack and has padding to protect your computer.

Top pocket

This is a small zippered pocket that is located on the top of the backpack. It is perfect for holding items that you need quick access to, such as your phone or a tissue.

Compression straps

Backpacks with compression straps help to keep your belongings secure and in place. Additionally, compression straps can be used to reduce the size of the backpack, which is perfect for when you are carrying a lot of items.

What more to consider when buying a backpack

Size and capacity

One of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a backpack is size. You want to make sure that the backpack is big enough to hold everything you need, but not too big that it becomes cumbersome to carry.

Have in mind that more pockets do not necessarily mean more storage space. While getting a unit that has slots for your things might be important, you should also consider how spacious these slots and pockets are.

Material

The next thing you need to think about is the material of the backpack. Depending on what you will be using the backpack for, different materials might be better suited.

For example, if you need a water-resistant backpack, then you will want one made from nylon or another similar synthetic material. On the other hand, if you are looking for a backpack that is lightweight and breathable, then a unit made from mesh or another similar fabric might be a better option.

Comfort

When looking for a backpack, it is also important to consider the level of comfort it provides. Make sure to check for features such as padded shoulder straps and a waist belt, as these will help distribute the weight of the backpack evenly.

Price

Finally, you will also want to consider the price of the backpack before making a purchase. Keep in mind that you generally get what you pay for when it comes to backpacks.

So, if you need a durable and high-quality backpack, be prepared to spend a bit more money. However, if you are only looking for a backpack for light use, then you should be able to find a cheaper option.

Keeping your stuff nice and organized will be much easier with the right multi pocket backpack. We hope that this guide has helped you in your search for the perfect backpack!

Keeping your hands warm on the slope, whether you are snowboarding or skiing, is the priority. No matter how great the snow is, having cold or wet hands will definitely ruin your day. To keep your hands protected in the cold there are two main types of handware – gloves and mittens. But is any of those two actually better? Let’s find out.

A glove is a garment covering hand and has separate sheaths for each finger. A mitten is the type of glove that has only two separate sections – one for the thumb and one for other four fingers. Gloves offer better dexterity than mittens, but they might not be the ideal choice for extremely cold weather. Mittens aren’t as dexterous as gloves, but they are warmer.

Convertible mittens are a hybrid of glove and mitten, basically the finger gloves with a cover that turns them into mittens for added warmth. They contain open-ended sheaths for the four fingers (as in a fingerless glove, but not the thumb) and an additional compartment encapsulating the four fingers. This compartment can be lifted off the fingers and folded back to allow the individual fingers ease of movement and access while the hand remains covered.

Trigger mittens aim to offer the best of both worlds – more warmth than traditional gloves, but with the index finger free, they add a level of dexterity that will allow you to more easily crank binding buckles, or tap your phone screen. These are also called 3-finger mittens, or lobster mitts.

One of the major arguments in favor of mittens is the fact that they are warmer than gloves, and the reason lies in their design. With a separate pocket for each finger, gloves have more surface area in direct contact with the elements, which translates to more opportunity for heat to escape. Mittens keep your fingers together which means that can share heat and literally keep each other warm. Having a single pocket means that warm air can circulate more easily.

On the other hand, if you wear mittens that are too warm, they can cause your hands to sweat more quickly than gloves, making them clammy and, ultimately, very cold.

Mittens limit mobility in certain circumstances and you may have to remove them to access your pockets or adjust your goggle strap. With all fingers separated, gloves provide a lot more dexterity and are ideal for activities where frequent handling of gear. Some gloves are even offering touch screen capabilities, so they don’t even need to be removed when using a phone.

Synthetic insulates when wet, it’s efficient relative to its weight, reasonably durable, and cheaper than down.

Fleece is another popular insulator, especially among casual and lightweight designs. Fleece gloves don’t provide much wind and weather protection, but  they are a cheap and comfortable option.

Merino Wool is our favorite material for next-to-skin baselayers and socks, but it isn’t as popular among winter gloves. This is mostly because it’s heavier, bulkier, and significantly less durable than synthetic.

As a glove insulator, down has a number of downsides. It must be lofty in order to provide insulation, which makes mittens bulky. Also, and natural goose or duck plumage loses its ability to insulate when wet.

Gloves and mittens vary in the amount of warmth they provide. Make sure to check what temperature are gloves designed for. If it gets extra cold, you can wear a pair of liners underneath your gloves or mittens.

The wide variety of gloves available makes it easy to find a glove with the right amount of insulation for any temperature. This will help keep your hands warm, without sweating. There are lightweight gloves for chilly weather, warm technical gloves for the coldest weather adventures, and everything in between. Mittens are usually designed just for cold temperatures. If you need maximum warmth, it is hard to beat a good pair of mittens. However, if you need something more lightweight, gloves are the way to go.

There are many different types of materials that keep the gloves waterproof. One of the most common is leather, which is usually at the higher price range. Leather has amazing insulation and waterproofing, but it requires a lot of care to last and keep its properties. Mittens with synthetic rubber on the bottom, which is the part that comes in contact with snow, will do a pretty good job keeping your hands warm and dry and they’re a little more cost effective than leather.

Many skiers prefer gloves when they are grasping ski poles. They are grippy and agile and make buckling and unbuckling your boots much easier. Additionally, cross-country skiers often prefer lightweight gloves, as they work up a sweat and want to wick moisture away as much as they can.

If your main concern is warmth, you should consider getting yourself a pair of snow mittens. Even without the ability to move your fingers separately, you will have no problem gripping a pair of ski poles, so mittens will do just fine.

Whether you’ll go for gloves or mittens when snowboarding comes down to personal preference. Some snowboarders prefer having the ability to use their fingers when adjusting bindings or using tools, while others give priority to staying warm.

There are features that you need to look for, regardless of the type of style you choose. First, snowboarding gloves need to have reinforced palms, to withstand dragging your hands on the snow. It is also a good idea to have wrist loops to prevent losing your gloves on the chairlift or keep you and your gloves together should you take a fall. Snowboarding mitts and gloves are often re-enforced around the tips of the fingers with wrap around cuffs.

The Carhartt C-Touch Knit Glove is a touchscreen-compatible glove made of wind-resistant fleece. Featuring a seamless knit glove and contoured rubber palm, Carhartt C-Grip gloves offer superior durability, dexterity and grip in wet and dry conditions. The touchscreen-compatible palm and thumb allow you to use electronics without taking off your gloves.

Created for hard-core days skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, or for just plain snowshoeing out in a snowy winter-scape, these gloves will keep your hands comfortable in the harshest of elements. Utilizing Columbia signature waterproof and breathable outer shell these mittens are infused with insulation made from 85% recycled polyester for dry comfort you can count on.

The Montana Etip™ Glove is a long-gauntlet alpine ski glove that provides warmth, touchscreen conductivity and the revolutionary waterproof, breathable performance of FUTURELIGHT™. Water-resistant synthetic leather provides a soft yet extremely durable palm If you need a 5 finger glove that is warm, waterproof, and allow you to use your phone, this is is the pair.

Setting out time to nail down your ideal size and get a glove or a mitten that fits is for sure something you should do. Proper fit will maximize everything a glove has to offer, from warmth to mobility. Properly-fitted gloves provide better dexterity. But, poorly-fitted gloves might just have worse dexterity than properly-fitted mittens.

You can choose between short-cuff and long-cuff gloves. Short-cuff gloves slide under your jacket sleeve, while long-cuff, gauntlet-style, models will easily go over the sleeve of your jacket. Short cuff lengths generally end at the base of your wrist, offering greater mobility in the wrist area and the ability for your jacket cuffs to overlap your gloves. This style generally works best with a jacket sleeve with Velcro adjustment tabs. Longer cuffs extend over and past the sleeve of your jacket and will offer more protection against snow creeping in.

Gloves vs mittens face-off is a battle of dexterity vs warmth, the winner depends on what is more important to you. Choose gloves when you need to be tying knots, using buckles or zippers, If dexterity is not that important, mittens offer more temperature versatility on the cold end. In the end, the best bet would be to use both: mittens when it’s very cold, and gloves when it’s warmer.

Nothing, not rain, not cold, not heat, can derail a perfectly good hike as much as a pestering little blister, making every step miserable. Many hikers and backpackers assume that they come with the experience, but that is not the case. Getting blisters on your feet is common, but not inevitable.

If you feel like you have tried anything to prevent blisters, tried out countless boots, talked to boot reps, questioned your hiking buddies and still hobble your way through hikes, you might have forgot the key ingredient: hiking socks.

Even the best hiking shoe cannot save you from blisters if you are wearing shoddy socks. Hiking socks are highly engineered to offer cushion, support, and comfort while reducing blisters and being durable. Primary contact points, like the ball of foot, heel, provide good cushioning. Other areas of the sock, like arch and instep, are designed to give good fit and support. A well-fitting sock helps reduce the chance of blisters while offering comfort on the trail.

Experienced hikers swear by the two-pair sock system that includes a thin synthetic inner socks, or a sock liner, and a thicker outer wool sock. The inner sock helps reduce friction with your foot, and wicks away moisture. The outer layer absorbs the moisture and provide insulation and cushioning.

The disadvantage of wearing two pairs of socks is that it can make your feet hotter.  Heat is one of the elements which makes your feet vulnerable to blisters. Another annoyance is that liner socks can make your boots fit too tightly.  A tight fit means that you will be even more prone to blisters.

If you have ever gotten blisters between your toes and know the torture, you might have considered getting a pair of toes socks. Based on the experiences, these might prove to be more than a Band-Aid solution.

Toe-socks separate and cushion the interdigital space, or the space between your toes, preventing rubbing that causes toe blisters. However, they aren’t any better than a normal sock for all other areas of the foot. In fact, the double layer between the toes can significantly increase bulk in the toebox and make it too tight.

If you are experiencing blisters despite the perfect hiking shoes, and your feet aren’t quite comfortable, you probably haven’t found the right kind of sock for you. These are the six key ingredients of a perfect pair of socks, no matter whether you’re skiing, hiking, trail running, mountain bike riding or doing any other outdoor activity.

Breathability and moisture management – these are the two important features for base layers and undergarments that depend on the fabric. Material which the sock is made of should enable wicking – drawing moisture away from the foot. It should also enable cooling, so your feet don’t get overheated.

The most comfortable and most recommended hiking socks are those made of Merino wool. They stay warm when it’s wet, which is great for cold and wet weather. Rather than draining heat from your body, the wool will keep you warm even when it’s wet. In summer though, merino wool will wick sweat away from the foot, regulating temperature within the shoe and keeping your feet cool.

Wool is also naturally anti-microbial, which means it’s inhibiting the growth of microorganisms, especially pathogenic ones. This is especially important for a long distance hiker who is moving very fast and can’t afford time to sit down and wash the socks and then wait for them to dry.

Merino wool is quite a dense fiber, making it a good structural base for creating padding and support within the sock.

Polyester and nylon are fabrics you will also see in socks designed for the outdoors. These are synthetic materials, but they help with wicking and are also able to dry quickly. Performance socks usually contain some percentage of spandex, which helps them keep their shape and fit well to your foot. There are lots of socks made with the wool/synthetic blend, which offer the best of both worlds in terms of comfort, durability and odor prevention.

You should absolutely stay away from cotton. Cotton is not a good material for a hiking sock because it absorbs moisture, it doesn’t dry quickly, it is heavy and has poor insulation properties, especially when wet.

The sock height marks how high the sock comes up your leg. It mostly comes down to the personal preference, but it is important to think about sock height with reference to the weather, the terrain and the type of footwear you are going to wear. Sock heights are relatively universal, and these are the most common in hiking socks, form the shortest to the longest cut:

Size chart by Darn Tough

• No-show. This is the shortest option that come just up to the ankle, leaving the ankle exposed. They work best with trail runners, sneaker and other soft-type footwear.
• Ankle. The ankle socks just cover your ankle bones and give a little bit more protection. This is the shortest option you should go for when hiking in a more rigid footwear.
• ¼ sock. Quarter socks sit just above the ankle, and they are great for low-cut hiking boots, running shoes, and sneakers.
• Crew. Crew length is the standard for a hiking sock. They work well with almost any kind of hiking footwear, from trail runners to boots. They will come up anywhere from 8.5 to 10.5 inches up your calf, measuring from the heel, depending on the model.
• Boot Socks / Mid-Calf. These are usually a bit higher than crew socks, sitting mid-calf for added protection and warmth. Men’s-sized socks tend to reach a bit higher on the leg compared to the women’s sock heights, so women’s boot height is practically men’s crew height.
• Over the Calf / Knee High. The tallest socks, also the warmest and the most protective, are great for mountaineering or winter backpacking. They come over your calf, and up to your knee, anywhere form 16.25” to 17” from the heel up.

Cushion is a padding within the sock created by knit terry loops. You want to have some extra padding, especially around the heel and around the forefoot where the sock needs to have a little bit more cushion where there’s a lot of pressure. This is great for high-impact activities, such as trail running and backpacking.

There are four levels of cushioning in hiking socks: ultra-light, lightweight, mid-weight and heavy weight. As the socks get thicker the cushioning increases. Ideally the ultra-light and lightweight cushion works really well with shoes, while the mid-weight and the heavy weight are great for trekking and hiking boots.

Always look for a nicely tight-fitting sock with as little wiggle room within the sock as possible. Having the snug fit to your foot will minimize any slipping or bunching that could potentially happen. This makes a big difference when you are traversing sloped terrain where you are potentially off trail and notice that your socks tend to slip and move and bunch around. Some hiking socks feature compression bands in the arch area, which adds support and improves the fit.

With a tight fit you are far less likely to end up with hot spots, blisters and general discomfort when you are on a challenging terrain. However, you do not want a sock that is too tight either, as your feet are going to swell a bit while you are hiking. So think snug, rather than too tight. Also, you want to make sure that the heel cup of the sock lines up well and fits well to your heel.

In recent year we have seen more and more athletes and outdoorsmen wearing compression socks. These are extremely tight socks that go almost to your knees, and supposedly aid blood flow for people that are prone to blood clothes. There are some reasons though why you would want to wear this type of socks for hiking. If you are susceptible to getting sore calves, or you have an injury, compression socks can help reduce the discomfort. They also add to the feeling of comfort and warmth for some people, which may not be measurable, but it’s still important.

This might seem pretty obvious, especially if you have been hiking for a while. You don’t want to have an exposed seam within the sock, because it is going to create a space for your toes to rub up against. This is going to create hot spots, or even blisters. The so-called seamless construction means that toes are sewn in a way that leaves no seam lines on the inside.

Anatomically shaped socks are specifically shaped for left and right feet, and are contoured to fit perfectly. Your left and right foot are different, in fact, they are the mirror image of one another. If you are wearing a hiking sock that is not specifically designed for the left and the right foot, you are simply not getting the optimum fit. This can be a significant factor for people whose big toes are longer than the rest of their toes.

Men’s and women’s feet have anatomical differences. Our shoes feature distinct fits, so why wouldn’t our socks? Some manufacturer, like Smartwool, developed a specific fit for each, with women’s socks featuring a slimmer heel pocket, narrower profile, and women-specific mesh ventilation zones. Men’s socks feature a wider profile, that works for wide feet.

Many socks on the market are unisex and typically work for both sexes, and that is alright. The one big difference that we have notice though, is that women’s hiking socks come in a all colors of the rainbow and fun patterns, while men’s socks feature more muted colors like blue, green, gray, shades of red and, of course, black.

There are plenty of great companies that make awesome socks, but for hiking enthusiasts here at NorthWest Outlet, there two great American sock companies that we always go back to: Smartwool from Colorado and Darn Tough from Vermont. Both these brands focus on Merino wool as the key component to their garments.

For over 20 years Smartwool has been pushing the boundaries of Merino to create smarter, more capable products from head to toe. Each pair of Smartwool socks is carefully crafted using the finest Merino wool to keep your feet dry and regulate body temperature so you can wear Smartwool in various conditions.

Not only are Smartwool socks extremely comfortable, they also come in really fun styles and colors, making them a stand out in the performance socks market. Smartwool offers anywhere from ultralight to heavy cushioning, as well as different sock technologies tailored for a slew of different activities to keep your feet happy. If for any reason you’re not satisfied with your Smartwool socks, you can return them within two years of purchase and Smartwool will make it right.

Darn Tough is a family owned business that has been knitting socks in Vermont for close to 40 years. Their mission is simple: to create the world’s best socks and stand behind them unconditionally. Darn Tough sock makers love and breathe in stitches per inch, seamless toes and cross stretch. After so many decades Darn Tough still craft every pair of their socks in Vermont.

When you purchase a pair of Darn Tough socks, you’re also getting a lifetime warranty that covers all the damage caused by wear and tear. So, if you wear them out, Darn Tough will replace them—no questions asked. Plus, designers use sustainable materials, like Merino wool, to create socks with less waste from start to finish.

There are also many other sock brands worth mentioning, like Icebreaker, Thorlo, Wigwam, the new-comer Injinji , but we’ll leave them for another time.

Most people are quick to blame getting blisters on poorly fitting footwear, but the truth is there is more to it than bad shoes, heat and moisture. So what actually causes blisters?

Despite the popular belief, these painful fluid-filled pockets are not caused by friction, at least not in the sense that most people consider friction, which is rubbing. The blisters are actually caused by shear and the skin stretching too much. Let’s explain.

For the most part there are three layers of the skins: the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous. The outermost layer, the epidermis, has 4-5 layers. Most areas have four, but in regions such as palms of your hands and the soles of your feet, where the skin is exposed to greater friction forces, there are five.

Repeated rubbing over one area of your skin creates forces that causes a split in the epidermis, allowing a plasma-like blister fluid to form in the space between the layers. So it is actually the internal part of the skin stretching that causes blister, not the rubbing over the external part of the skin.

If all of this does not make sense for you, here is a great video that explains the cause of foot blisters:

Here are some tips from an avid hiker and a New York Times bestselling travel book author Karen Berger:

Double-check the boot fit. If you’re a beginning backpacker and you’re not used to the feel of hiking boots, wear them at home for a couple of days for several hours to be sure they are comfortable. Seek out a reputable store and an experienced salesperson to find the best fit. If you wear them at home and they don’t feel right, you can take them back to the store for exchange.

Toe tap test: lace your shoes as you would normally do, then tap your toes on the ground. If you feel you toes hitting the front of the shoe, it is not a good fit.

Break in your boots. This is usually as much of an issue of toughening your feet as softening your boots. Any way you look at it, your feet and boots are going to have to reach a compromise, and better they work out their differences near home than on the trail. I like to walk about 50 miles in new boots before I hit the trail (which is great exercise, too). But even trustworthy comfy boots need to be reintroduced to your feet if you’ve been sitting around all winter. Before a big trip, I’ll go out for a couple of four- or five-mile shorties near home, just so my feet and my boots can renew their acquaintance.

Wear wicking socks. Polypropylene or nylon are fine—under a pair of wool or wool-and-nylon blend outer socks. The wicking socks are less abrasive, plus they move moisture away from your feet. Never wear cotton socks—cotton absorbs moisture and practically guarantees blisters.

Go easy on the mileage and keep your pack weight as low as possible.

The absolutely number one most important rule of blister prevention: The second you feel the slightest hint of something rubbing in your shoe, STOP! Ignore your hiking partner’s pleas to just keep going. Find the pebble, grass-seed, clump of dirt, grain of sand, or wrinkle in the sock. If it’s a tight boot that’s causing trouble, rub the inside of your boot with the blunt, rounded end of a Swiss army knife to try to stretch the leather or fabric.

Treat a hot spot with moleskin on the trail. If you know you’ve got a vulnerable trouble spot, like the back of your heel, put a piece of moleskin on it before you start walking. If a blister has already started forming (it can happen in mere seconds), use a dressing called Second Skin. This dressing was developed to treat burns—and after all, blisters are nothing more than friction burns. Whether you’re putting moleskin over a hot spot or adhesive tape over a Second Skin dressing, remember that tape adheres better to dry skin than wet skin—so use a bandanna to dry your sweaty feet first.

Happy feet = happy hiking! Explore our wide range of special walking, hiking and climbing socks curated for active people who want to get the most out of every outdoor experience. Northwest Outlet is proudly carrying the best performance sock brands in the outdoor industry.

There is always a debate about the proper type of footwear for hiking, and while some people are appalled by the idea of hiking in anything else than trail shoes or hiking boots, other prefer the breeziness of hiking sandals. The bottom line is you should find something comfortable and supportive, that is broken in, has good traction and that you are used to wearing. Hiking sandals are perfect for outdoor activities like scrambling, boating, fishing, rowing or exploring the beach.

What are the hiking sandals design features you need to consider?

Outdoor sandals are very different than traditional summer sandals. They are made from very durable synthetic materials or thick leather, which makes them puncture-resistant and capable of walking over sharp terrain.

There are two main types of sandals: those with an upper made up of straps or those featuring an upper with large holes in it through which you can see the foot. Uppers for hiking sandals are typically made of either suede/nubuck, leather or synthetic materials and each have their advantages. Suede is a type of leather that is thinner and softer than full-grain leather and typically lasts longer than synthetic materials, but it does not dry as quickly. Synthetic straps can be made of polyester, nylon, or microfiber and tend to be lighter and dry quicker.

Midsole is the part of the sole that connect the part that comes in contact with the foot, and the outsole, and provides support. It is made either of  EVA or PU.

EVA tends to be lighter and softer, offer better cushioning, but are less durable. For light summer hiking EVAs would do just fine. But for hiking long distances, or over sharp and rugged terrain hiking sandals with PU midsoles are a better option.

Outsole is the bottommost layer of a sandal, which actually makes the contact to the ground as you hike. Made of rubber, it is also called lug sole and includes indentations or grooves to provide grip. The lug pattern and depth on the outsole depends on your preference and the amount of traction you need.

The footbed should ideally be padded or cushioned, either with an air based midsole such as EVA, Compression molded EVA, Vibram or similar. This can protect you from impacts and shocks, and provides lateral stability. Rubber footbeds prevent feet from slipping and sliding inside the sandal.

If you have high arch it is nice to have some support, so you need to look for a contoured and arch supportive footbed designed for a higher arch. But if you arch is lower, or your feet are a bit pronated, you will find the feeling of the sole digging into your feet uncomfortable, so look for padded and contoured insole that will mold to your feet

The most important thing when you are choosing footwear for the trail is to make sure that whatever you have on your feet is comfortable. When choosing a pair of hiking sandals to go a long way, these are the things to take into account:

When it comes to hiking, you need shoes that have a sturdy sole that provides your feet with a firm grip. If you walk over rough terrain or trails that have an incline, you can’t afford to slip and fall. Look for hiking sandals that have a sturdy sole that also flexes with your natural foot movement. Additionally, you should also check to make sure the sandals have an appropriate amount of tread, but this of course depends on a type of the trail you’ll be hiking on.

Your sandals should be a size or half size bigger than your normal shoe. The reasoning behind this is solely due to the fact your heels and toes are exposed versus being fitted into a closed shoe. This allows feet to extend fully, so it’s always better to have a little extra wiggle room than to have your toes pouring over your shoes.

Having multiple adjustable straps on your sandals will allow you to change the fit of the sandal and relieve pressure on the parts of your feet that are feeling sore or swollen.

Perhaps the most convenient option is bungee laces with a cinch cord because they allow you to easily adjust the fit. On the other hand, Velcro straps are number one when it comes to quickly get your foot in and out.

It’s also a good idea to make sure that your sandals offer you the right amount of ankle support, too. Try a pair that have a strap that goes behind your heel as well as straps that fit around the side and connect to the sole of the shoe for a secure fit.

Sandals with toe cap offer much more protection, but they are not as breathable, and you will have to take them off and give them a shake if rocks happened to get in through the holes. With open toes you can just shake them out and keep going.

There are some significant differences between the feet of men and women. Women tend to have a wider forefoot and narrower heel compared to men, so they may find it difficult to find the right pair of sandals among models designed mostly for men. We recommend that women only buy the women’s models, as these have been specially designed to fit the female anatomy, with narrower footbed and design geared towards smaller feet.

Pros

• Fewer blisters. Sandals have fewer points of contact with your feet, reducing rubbing and preventing your feet from getting sweaty and sticky, thus preventing chafing and blisters.
• Crossing the water. Sandals can be fully submerged in water without compromising their integrity or making the rest of your hiking miserable. Simply walk through whatever water you’ve come across, get to the other side, and keep walking – the air and your movement will have your feet dry in no time.
• Better for hot temperatures. Hiking boots and trail runners can trap hot air and moisture around your feet, causing excessive sweating and possible health side effects. Sandals allow your feet to breathe and keep them dry, preventing the growth of bacteria.

Cons

• Your feet are exposed to everything. This includes, brush, rock or even snake bites.
• Not for rugged terrain or tender feet. A hiking sandal, no matter how good it is will never match the sturdiness and protection of a hiking boot.
• Lack of ankle support. Ankle support is important when you are traversing a challenging trail, or hauling heavy loads.
• Not ideal for hiking in wet weather. Even though the sandals dry super quickly after crossing streams, they are not that good for hiking in the rain or on muddy terrain.

The barefoot running is the new philosophy behind the moving around on your two feet that has become very popular in the last few years. These minimalist sandals completely disregard various types of support that traditional shoes offer and allow you to be more grounded and rely completely on your feet for support.

Barefoot sandals and shoed have no padding, no raised heel and ultra-thin sole. They allow you to experience the ground you are walking on, as you would if you walked barefoot, providing just a thin layer of protection. They are super flexible, super lightweight, but the truth is – they are not for everyone. If you have any kind of foot or ankle problem, it would be better to consult a licensed podiatrist before throwing away your shoes.

Provided that the weather is right and the terrain allows it, the answer is yes. As you have seen, there are many benefits of backpacking in sandals. For an ultra-light, hot weather backpacking trip, sandals are a great choice. However, if you are carrying a heavy load, you might consider wearing something that provides greater support.

Even if you are not hiking in sandals, you can carry a pair with you to put on once you get to camp. It is very nice to get out of your shoes or boots and give your feet a well-deserved break, while still being able to walk around the camp. Some hiking sandals are ultra lightweight and take no room at all, you can even roll them up and throw them in your backpack.

A good hiking sandal definitely has its place in the hiking footwear assortment. While sandals are not going to be as protective of your feet as hiking shoes or boots, they do have their benefits. For example, if you are going to be going through an area that has a lot of water crossings, going through water with sandals will let your feet dry quickly. This is much better than having your shoes soaked, or having to stop to take them off and put them on again.

The first thing that you probably want to learn about when setting up your fly fishing kit are the flies you should get or the type of fly rod you should purchase. While this is essential, let’s start with the basics first. Many experienced fly fishers will tell you that all you need is a fly rod and some flies, but proper gear can not only help you with your fishing adventure, but also help you stay safe when you get out on the water.

Always grab a hat when you’re heading out to the water. It protect you from the sun, mosquitoes, foul hooks, and it’s also handy for dipping into the river on a hot day to soak your head. It’s a good idea to pack an extra one on your bag. Check out our Hiking Hats Guide.

Sunglasses protect your eyes from the harmful UV rays. Look for polarized sunglasses, as they cut the glare off of the water, making it easier to spot fish and also be able to see your fly on the water. They also protect you from wayward lures and flies, and foul hooks. In fact, this is the reason to think about wearing some eye protection, even when you’re fishing at nighttime. Get rope retainers with your sunglasses, in case you fall into the water, you don’t want to lose your favorite pair of shades in addition to getting wet.

This item may seem unnecessary, but you’d be surprised how fast a storm can move in on you. And if you are out on the river having a blast catching fish, you don’t want rain to ruin your day. Sometimes the biggest fish are caught in the middle of a downpour.

A vest is, in essence, a fly fisher’s tool belt. The classic is a typical vest that has numerous pockets for flies, lines, weights, and any other small item you might need. In recent years companies have also come out with great day packs, waist packs, lumbar packs and chest packs.

Waders are thick, waterproof pants that keep you dry throughout the day. They are not necessary, but we highly recommend getting them. You might think that can do with just a pair of boots and some shorts, but you’ll soon find you that you get cold long before you are able to get to where the fish are rising. Getting a pair of waders will allow you to fish long past sundown.

There are two basic types of waders: neoprene and synthetic. Neoprene waders are very durable and great for extremely cold conditions. Synthetic waders are lightweight and semi-breathable. Depending where you’re headed for your next fishing trip you might be better off with one over the other.  Just like with any pair of pants, the quality and fit will differ from one company to the next, so it is best that you try on a few pairs to see which you like best.

These are the boots designed to go over your waders. Some waders come with boots on them, and while these can be great for cold weather, they can be cumbersome if you are hiking around looking for the perfect hidden spot.

Think of wader boots as you would of hiking shoes. They come in all styles and shapes and offer a variety of levels of support. A high top boot with good ankle support will help you navigate rocks and terrain on the river. The soles on wader boots also have multiple options for grip, like rubber soles, spiked rubber soles, felt soles, combo soles in just about any combination. We recommend starting with felt soles, as this is the best all-around sole for slippery rocks on the river, and also great for boats because it won’t pop the seal. When the felt hits the water it acts as an additional grip that sticks to slime, ice, mud, sand, and pretty much anything your foot might come in contact with when you’re out on the water.

If you’re going to be wearing waders, you definitely need a belt. This is one of the most important tools that you can have out on the water. Water is dangerous. It is beautiful, it is magical, but it can take a life as quickly as it passes by. The current can sweep you off your feet in no time. Or, if you step into a hole and the water starts flowing over the top of your waders, if you are not wearing a belt they will act as cement boots, dragging you down. Wearing belt will stop gallons of water filling your shoes if you happen to slip into a hole.

This is the one tool that is going to help you land that fish. The type of fish that you’re fishing for will determine the size of the net you’ll need. Classic fishing nets are made of wood and fabrics, but nowadays you can find nets made of larger thresholds and clear rubber netting. Clear rubber netting is great: you’re flat doesn’t get stuck inside, and the net becomes almost invisible under water, so you don’t scare the fish as you are trying to scoop it up.

Obviously, fly box carries your flies. A part of keeping dry flies in normal shape is to make sure they are dry before you put them in the box.

Clippers are a handy tool for clipping a line after making a knot. You don’t want to do that with your teeth, and clippers are easy to attach to your fishing vest so you have them at your hand whenever you need them.

A pair of clamps, or a pair of needle-nose pliers are great for clamping on split shot, pulling small flies out of your fly box, and most importantly, retrieving your fly out of a fish’s mouth after you’ve caught it.

These come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and they are essential for the drift hook fly fishing system. You can get bead weights or twists, it comes down to personal preference.

Floatant is a liquid or powder that helps keep your dry fly above the water longer. There are numerous varieties on the market, experiment with them and see which one you like best

Despite that technical-sounding name, an indicator is little more than a bobber. If you want to successfully nymph and don’t have the patience to learn to tight-line, these little floating delights will serve as your window to the underwater world and help you “see” when trout eat your bugs. Colored bobbers are great for beginners, but fish might get deterred or excited by these unnatural colors, so we recommend using clear bobbers because they are virtually invisible to fish below surface.

These connect to your line that then connects to tippet and then to your fly. Tippet is what you use to tie your fly onto your leader. The greatest innovation in fly fishing in the last 20 years has been release of fluorocarbon tippet. Even though it doesn’t have the same flex strength as monofilament tippet, it is completely invisible on water. To save on your fishing expenses you can purchase a monofilament leader and then a fluorocarbon tippet.

This is the list of the items that are more than welcome in your fly fishing kit. Choosing the right fly rod and picking the right flies is a much more complicated subject that we will go over in another article.

In the meantime, make sure to check our selection of fishing gear, there are many more new product and amazing deals to come.

One of the biggest problems facing hikers is staying properly hydrated. But no matter how parched you are, the worst thing you could possibly do is just taking a sip form a creek. The truth is, no matter how gorgeous the setting or how sweet and pure the water tastes, there is no way to tell whether or not it is riddled with little bugs that can make you really, really sick. A good portable water filter makes all the difference.

In the 1980s we learned of Giardia lamblia, a microscopic parasite encased in a hard shell (called a protozoan cyst) that makes its home in the intestines of animals and humans. More recently, we have learned of another cyst, Cryptosporidium parvum. Both cause extreme distress in the lower gastrointestinal tract and are highly contagious. They can be difficult to diagnose and treat. The cysts are extremely hardy and can survive out of water for weeks. Furthermore, a person can become ill by ingesting just one of these cysts. You’re at risk pretty much anytime you dip your drinking bottle into open water.

Lucky for us, there are a number of water filtration and purification options out there to help make water safe for consumption. Filters provide physical filtration at a micron level, enabling the removal of both giardia and cryptosporidium, as well as removing particulate. The EPA has no standard for testing or approving filters, they are only certified by third-party bodies, though proper use of a filter does provide reasonable protection. Chemicals kill the cysts, but do not remove particles from the water.

Hollow fiber filters are very reliable in many real-world water conditions, because they physically remove the contaminants. These filters should not freeze, so if you’re camping and temperatures drop below 32 degrees, consider tucking the filter in your sleeping bag. The negatives of using a filter are the weight and bulk, as well as the time required to stop and filter water, though due to high flow rate, hollow fiber filters can process water fairly quickly.

Filters give the best-tasting water. Pump filters get rid of cryptosporidium, giardia, and bacteria like E. coli, and they use a carbon element to filter out most chemicals and bad tastes, but not viruses. Opt for one only if you’re convinced that viruses will not be a problem in your travels, or if you’re prepared to chemically zap them after you’ve filtered your water. Or boil water on you backpacking propane stove. 

This pocked-sized water filter is very compact and light, weighing just 5 ounces. It fits conveniently in an outside pack pocket, though the hose is quite short, so you will have to bend over while pumping water. It is faster than many other filters, even when pumping a lot of water.

Here are few pro tips by Washington Trail Association to get the most from this tiny filter: It is easy to take off the small mesh filter on the intake hose after every 5 liters or so and just give it a quick swirl through water to help clean it. To clean the main compartment, fill it up about half way and put on the cap. Then pull off the bottom hose, give it a good shake with your finger over the outlet, and then let the water drain away. Finally, this pump works much faster if you prime it first. Give about 10 slow pumps, until the reservoir is nearly full, and then fill up your water container.

This filtration system is a complete, self-sufficient hydration solution for backpackers. It is lightweight and able to roll up, so it takes up virtually no space in your pack. This system can filter up to 100 000 gallons of water, which means that in theory you could fill a 50ft swimming pool with clean, germ-free drinking water.

The Point One Squeeze Filter system includes two 32 oz squeeze pouches, filter, cleaning plunger, inline hydration pack adapter, gravity tube, and mesh bag with hanging loop. Sawyer Squeeze filter is very versatile, you can use it with included bag, with almost any aftermarket bag, or just screw it directly on to a bottle and drink the water right from the filter. You can also use it in gravity fed systems, as well as inline filter on a water bladder.

Gravity bags are an incredibly simple addition to the water cleaning arsenal. There are smaller, more compact filtering devices available, but probably none as easy to use as the Gravity Filter. Simply scoop up water in the extra-large bag, hang it up and kick back while it does all the work for you.

The system consists of a bag, or a pair of bags, one for dirty water and one clean, with hoses running to and from the filter or purifier. It takes some time to filter a gallon of water this way, so it’s not a trailside fix, but in camp, the convenience can’t be beat. Not every filter will run on gravity, but there are ready-made systems that can efficiently and quickly filter water while you set up camp. The MSR Autoflow system works this way, as well as Platypus gravity system with a filter with flow rate of 4 liters in 2.5 minutes.

MSR Autoflow XL is a fast, high-volume water filtration system, perfect for camping. Without any action on your part, the system filters water at an impressive rate of 1.75l per minute, using the filter cartridge based on hollow fiber technology. Just fill the durable RF welded 10 liter bag, hang it and let the gravity do the work. You’ll have clean, safe to drink water for the entire group in minutes.

This system includes the dirty water reservoir, a hose for the dirty water reservoir, Gravity Works filter, clean water hose with an attachment to connect to clean water reservoir. It is very easy to use, and easy to clean as well. The hollow fiber filter cartridge can process up to 1500 liters of water before it needs to be replaced. You are also able to easily backflush this filter to clean t and remove any air bubbles.

A UV water purifier treats micro-biologically unsafe water with germicidal ultraviolet light. The UV wavelength scrambles the DNA of living organisms in the water, so they can no longer reproduce and make you sick. This type of water purification deactivates living organisms, but does not remove particles, nor bad taste and odor, so it use is alongside filters to provide perfectly clean drinking water.

This lightweight water purifier uses high energy ultra-violet light to blast viruses, bacteria and cysts from your water. This little device is perfect for backcountry hiking, camping trips or even international travel. It is very simple to use, and it decontaminates 1l of water in your water container in 90 seconds.  It can only be used with clear, unfrozen water, any discoloration and debris can limit the penetration of UV light, so you need to use a pre-filter if the water is cloudy or murky. The life of the lamp is 8000 activation cycles which means over 7 years if you use it 3 times EVERY day! The batteries are included.

SteriPEN Classic is the best-selling UV water purifier of all times. It is very effective, as the UV light breaks the DNA of microorganisms making it unable to reproduce and make you sick. There is no pumping, no waiting for chemicals to work, the water is ready to drink as soon as the lamp switches off.

In the pack with SteriPEN Classic 3, you will also get a pre-filter and the wide bottle attachment, which can be used with most wide-mouth bottles. The filter is used to remove small particles and debris from water

Sure, a pump filter will remove harmful microorganisms from water. You still need a viricide though—think chlorine bleach, chlorine dioxide, or iodine—to finish off the really small, really nasty stuff like Norovirus, a well-known ‘stomach flu’. All these chemicals work, but some are less effective in very cold or murky water. And remember: viricides are poison; read, memorize and follow the instructions. Be aware: Iodine does not kill cryptosporidium, and bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is not considered a safe water-purification method.

If you like to backpack light, carry only as much as you need (and a little extra) to get you to the next good water source. Instead of carrying a bulky water filter, opt for Aquamira water treatment drops or chlorine dioxide purification tablets. Both are effective without the icky taste of iodine.

For serious water treatment in nearly every situation, you can rely on Aquamira Water Treatment, a two-part liquid solution. It’s a simple, lightweight, and inexpensive option. Each kit contains everything you need to treat up to 30 gallons of water. The active ingredient is chlorine dioxide, the stuff used in municipal water purification. Aqua Mira does change the flavor of the water slightly, but it’s not unpleasant. Tablets with the same active ingredient are also available and are great as a backup, but they are more expensive.

On the trail you obviously need something that will hold your water. There are two options: a collapsible water reservoir (water bladder) and a hard sides water bottle. The advantage of water bottles is that there are options that come with filter, so you get a full water filtering/storage system in one. Insulated bottles keep the water fresh and cold and even if they do not come with integrated filters, the wide-mouth opening works with many standard water filter attachments.

With the ultralight Katadyn BeFree, you can head out on any adventure, no matter the size, without worrying about clean drinking water. Whether it be on a remote trek, out mountain biking, or at a small basecamp by the lake. Just fill the flexible, foldable reservoir with water and be immediately refreshed doing what you love. The BeFree bottle is the perfect companion for hikes, travel, or for everyday use.

Katadyn BeFree is incredibly convenient filter and water container that packs down small enough to fit in your pocket. The EZ-Clean Membrane filter is integrated in the cap with snap closure, catching all the particles down to 0.1 micron. All it takes to clean this filter is to stick it in the water source and swish it around, no extra tools or syringes needs. You can filter up to 1000l before you’ll need a replacement membrane.

Hollow water filters use ultrafiltration membrane technology to catch particulate that is down below 0.025 micron. It centers around microscopic pores in the polymer membrane surface to form a physical barrier to any solids and microorganism in the water. As water flows through the microscopic pores and into the membrane fibers, the particulate, bacteria and viruses are blocked, letting only the treated water pass through.

The most important thing with any hydration equipment before storing it for the season is to make sure it is completely clean and dry, otherwise you risk bacteria or mold growing in there, which can taste horrible, and give you a bit of a stomach bug to. Remove filter from its housing and dry everything completely before storage. Thoroughly sanitize and dry hydration bags and water bottles completely before storage. Remember to remove batteries from MIOX water purifiers.

When temperatures drop below freezing, portable water filters are not the solution for your hydration needs. If you get water into the filter, it will freeze, expand and begin breaking all of the seals inside your filter, making it no longer effective. So when it’s cold, leave the filters behind and turn to one of the alternatives such as tablets, electronic purifiers and good old-fashioned boiling.

There are a lot of backcountry water filtration systems that you can use out on the trail, but which one is the best? Well, which portable water filter or water purifier you’ll choose, depends on your need. Are you camping in a tent or camper van? Gravity filter systems are a given. For hiking and backpacking, we would recommend MSR filters, Sawyer Squeeze or Katadyn BeFree. And having a water purification tablets of droplets is always a good idea, as they take up virtually no space at all, but can be a vital backup option for making water germ-free and good to drink.

Good, rugged and best hiking boots are one of the big 4 camping trip essentials (the others being a great sleeping bag, a good tent , water and backpacking stove). If any of your essentials fail on you, that’ll cut your camping trip short and you’ll have to return to civilization ASAP. An ill-fitting pair of boots or shoes can cause blisters, strained muscles, problems with your toes, and in the long term can cause knee, hip and spine issues.

We’ve reviewed a lot of boots and picked out the 5 most popular and quality options that cover a wide spectrum of needs. After you’ve read our recommendations, you can read our guide on how to choose a good shoe/boot and the important considerations you should keep in mind.

The updated St. Elias boot offers premium materials, a premium leather upper and a Gore-Tex membrane lining. The full grain leather upper is easy to break in. The ATC midsole, combined with the EVA cushioning pods guarantees comfort, while the Vasque Exclusive Vibram outsole guarantees good grip on all surfaces.

Last but not least, a molded rubber toe cap will keep your toes safe on the trail. Accidentally kicking a big rock is something that happens to every hiker, and you’ll be glad you have the toe cap. This is a rugged midweight boot suited for all conditions, and it’s great for both newcomers and expert hikers. The one downside is that they might get soggy in warmer climates.

The lightweight Mantra low hiking shoe is a new, trendy favorite of many hikers that hike in warmer climates. It features a Gore-Tex membrane and a speed lacing system that’ll keep your feet snug on the trail, and is very comfortable to wear due to the combination of Nubuck leather and the abrasion resistant mesh upper.
The Vibram outsole will keep safe on the steep or slippery surfaces you might encounter.

This hiking shoe is a great beginner’s choice to use in the summer, or to use year-round in the warmer climates such as Nevada. The downside is that they’re less durable compared to some boots, but they’re durable enough for most hikers.

Columbia Newton Ridge are one of the most popular beginner boots out there. They’re budget friendly, have a quality leather upper, are waterproof and seam sealed. They offer a light amount of ankle support and are best suited for moderate trails.

The padded collar is comfortable but not very stiff. These boots aren’t the best choice on very harsh trails, but are the best option for a shy newcomer or a friend trying to hike for the first time. Despite not using premium materials, these boots are durable enough and will serve a casual hiker for a long time.

Merrell is a well-known name in the industry and the MOAB (Mother of all Boots) midweight waterproof boots are one of the most popular boots out there. For a lot of good reasons. First thing’s first, they’re very affordable at ~$130. They’re lightweight and rugged, with a quality Vibram outsole that provides great traction and a waterproof membrane. The upper is a mix of suede leather and mesh, providing good breathability compared to any other waterproof option.

It also features a protective rubber toe cap that’s both lightweight and keeps your toes safe from rocks and other debris. They are very comfortable to wear and in many ways just like a regular office shoe.

The one downside is that they aren’t as durable as some other options out there, due to the combined mesh and leather upper, but they’ll serve an avid hiker for at least a year, while a more laid-back hiker can expect that a pair lasts him up to 3 years. Visit Merrell shoes outlet for more options.

The Danner ADAMS is a heavyweight boot meant for serious mountaineering treks. They’re inspired by classic European mountaineering boots, and are boots fit for the harshest environments. A molded toe cap will protect your toes from harm, while the double-stitched full grain leather upper provides unmatched durability. These boots can last for years.

They feature Gore-Tex waterproof lining and a Vibram outsole for better traction. Compared to military boots of similar quality and durability, these are lighter and more comfortable to wear.
Their drawback is that they are heavy compared to other hiking boots and will tire you out sooner; but there’s no alternative to wearing these while you’re mountaineering in harsh climates.

There are a lot of things you need to consider when you buy a boot, and we’ll list all of them. Buying the wrong boot might cut your hiking trip short and in the worst case scenario, get you into an accident. Boots are one of the big 4 items that are essential for camping, and don’t be afraid to return a pair of boots or shoes back to the store and order another pair if they don’t fit your needs.

The first and the most important thing footwear should provide is comfort. You’ll be wearing these boots for days, far longer than most people are used to. If your shoes are a poor fit, each step will feel like hell and you’ll probably have to cut your camping trip short.
If you’re wearing poorly fitting footwear, you’ll easily get blisters. Blisters, if not properly treated, could lead to a foot infection. Wear the boots around the house and go on small walks to see if they fit. Pay attention to the toe box and if all your toes fit.

Different people have different sized and shaped feet (and the feet are often not symmetrical), and you’ll need to figure out what features you need, like how wide or narrow the boot is, how good is the arch support, the heel-to-toe drop, how stiff the boot is, and if it fits insoles.

Feet don’t stay the same size during the day, and they tend to swell when you spend a lot of time on the trail. Try to go shopping for shoes in the evening, when your feet naturally swell, and try to buy a shoe a half-size larger than your normal shoes.

Account for how thick the socks you wear are, and try the footwear out while you’re wearing those socks. A good rule of thumb is that you can insert your index finger in the back heel without too much issue (or that there’s an index finger’s width of space between your toes and the toebox), and that your toes aren’t hitting the front of the shoe.

Many campers don’t take the weight of their shoes into account; this is a mistake that might cost you your health over a long trail or a lifetime of hiking.

Heavyweight shoes are meant for serious wilderness backpackers that carry a lot of gear and weight, while lightweight shoes are meant for more casual hikers going on well-maintained trails.
If you’re not somebody that needs to have a heavyweight, all-terrain, all-season boot, it is strongly advised to go as light as you can. Lighter footwear is good enough protection, and your hips and knees will thank you for it in time.
On the other end of the spectrum, where protection and durability is a must, there’s nothing that can beat a good, heavyweight boot. In between, there’s the midweight category for hikers that aren’t completely in either category.

Quality hiking shoes last for around 800 miles, while quality hiking boots last for around a 1000 miles. You mileage may vary, depending on the trails and how often you use and maintain the shoes/boots.

Don’t be too fixated on the durability, hiking footwear will not fail you out on the trail, but it will gradually wear out. You’ll know when to buy a new pair, and many avid hikers buy three or four pairs of trusted footwear that they use up over the years.

As a rule of thumb, tough leather lasts longer but is the most uncomfortable to wear, milder leathers and nylon last a shorter while, while mesh footwear wears out the quickest.

Ankle support is not that important for most campers and hikers. For very heavy loads (anything above 50 lbs), you might look into stiff, durable boots that offer great ankle support. They’re very similar to high top army boots which are suited to carrying packs of upwards to 150 lbs for 9 miles, which is in no way a healthy way to hike.
For anyone else that doesn’t have to lug a weight equivalent to a smaller child in gear, ankle support is a subjective parameter. Some people prefer a bit of ankle support on tougher hikes, while others are quite content with no ankle support. This is your call.

Most hiking boots and shoes are within the $100-$300 range. As always, it’s better to shop for quality as these boots will keep you and your feet safe on the trail, but the $100 options work just as well. More affordable shoes and boots offer lower durability, meaning you’ll need to buy more of them over time.

The higher price is often reflected in the use of premium quality materials; they’ll last a long time and you’re going to buy less boots/shoes over a lifetime.

For the more casual weekend hikers, buying budget friendly boots or shoes is good enough for a year or two. Professionals and enthusiasts should buy better gear because it’ll pay itself off over time, like Keen shoes & footwear.

Hiking boots and shoes are very stiff and stable compared to most other footwear; this is due to the shank, a piece of hard plastic in the sole of the boot/shoe. Some boots and shoes are meant for mountaineering, and have a very long and hard shank. This isn’t a problem when you’re going over harsh terrain or snow, but can be fatiguing on a more casual hike.

If you’re hiking in an area that has sharp rocks, debris and other hard matter on the trail, these are your best bet. Some people have a personal preference for a softer feeling shoe or boot and might go for an option in the middle. Midway shoes are durable and comfortable enough, and shine in rugged hikes with lots of loose rock and gravel under your feet.

Lightweight shoes and boots often forego the use of a shank and feel like regular shoes. These are the best option for well-kept trails in national parks and easy trails, and are the most comfortable of the three.

Most hiking boots and shoes today are waterproof; or at least have a waterproof option. Most newcomers opt to get waterproof boots because wearing soggy, wet socks for an entire day is an experience everyone would gladly avoid.

Gore-tex (abbreviated to GTX) lining is a very popular option for most boots today; most of the hiking boots and shoes are waterproof.
There are pros and cons to being waterproof. The pros are that they function admirably in cold, wet environments, and you don’t have to worry about your feet getting wet if you’re crossing a shallow stream or that accidentally stepping into a puddle will ruin your day.

The cons are that they’re not breathable, and your feet will most likely sweat and make the inside of the boot soggy. Being waterproof both keeps outside water out, and inside water in. They’re notoriously hard to dry.

For hikers and campers that usually go out into the wilderness in the summer (which is the most popular outdoors season), breathability might beat out waterproofing.

In hot and dry states like Nevada and California, campers and hikers find that breathability always beats having a waterproof shoe, while in colder states like Indiana, waterproof boots and shoes are key to having a safe hike in the wild.

Factory new boots have been treated with a water-repellent finish, and most boots will be waterproof for quite some time in use. After a while, the finish will wear off and the boots will no longer be waterproof. Aftermarket waterproofing treatments, designed for a specific type of material, are a quick and easy fix. Be sure to get the right type of waterproof for your specific type of leather; you’ll have diminished results if you use rough leather waterproofing treatments for full-grain leather boots.

They’ll keep your boots waterproof for a couple of more seasons. Before you apply the solution, clean your boots up with a boot cleaner, a soft brush, and water. Wax-based waterproofing that many “lifehack” websites propagate isn’t a good idea; it’s outdated and it leaves wax residue that makes your shoes harder to maintain and fix. It doesn’t last long; the layer of wax is naturally rubbed off by the small flexing of the shoe’s material during day-to-day walking.

Ultimately, there’s no getting around the fact that boots aren’t something you buy for life. They’ll wear out, they’ll get damaged on the trail, and eventually, you’ll need to replace them.

Depending on where you’re going, traction can make or break your hike. Slippery, steep or rocky trails, or crossing a stream require a “stickier” boot. The difference between a regular trail shoe and a hiking boot usually lies in the outsole construction.

Vibram is an Italian-made (or licensed) rubber that is used in outsoles for traction; almost all hiking boots and shoes use it. Not all Vibram is created equal, small changes to the formula can control stiffness, stickiness and changes in design can modify how well it grips the surface.

It’s very important to break the boots in. When they leave the factory, they’re made to default factory specifications and they rarely fit anyone. When you spend some time using them around the house and around the block for about a week, they’re broken in and follow the contours of your feet.

Try to break the shoes in during the morning when your feet aren’t as swollen, and take a break around noon. Repeat for a week. The shoe should feel more comfortable after a week or two.

If your footwear isn’t broken in, you risk having an injury on the trail, or at the very least you’re guaranteed to have a miserable time.

Boots and shoes are extremely important on a hike. The entire trip depends on them working, and they’re the most crucial piece of gear that you can’t really replace or jury rig in the case of a serious tear. Anything duct tape won’t fix is already a cause for alarm and you might have to cut your trip short.

If you footwear can’t handle the conditions of the trail, you run the risk of injuring yourself by falling or slowly wearing out your hips, spine, ankles and knees.

Be very careful when you choose a pair, and be ready to return footwear that doesn’t mesh with your particular needs; if you’re new to the hobby, stay on the safe side and go for day hikes. When you accrue some experience you’ll find out what kind of footwear suits you best.

Do you know someone that might use a few tips and pointers on their next hiking shoe purchase? If you do, please share this article. It might help them out.

Two of the most important things on a trail are cooked food and boiled water. We’ve come a long way since the days of old and using three rocks to balance a cast-iron pan or pot, and we have specialized cooking backpacking stoves and systems that’ll re-hydrate a meal, make a cup of coffee, cook some food and boil water. And all that at the turn of a valve and a push of a button.

There’s a lot of variety out there, stoves of all shapes and sizes catering to every need a type of camper might have. You’ll find ultralight backpacking stoves for backpackers that count grams, and super-stoves meant for sub-zero conditions; with a small nostalgic detour back to solid fuel stoves and alcohol stoves. A newcomer might get lost along the way, and we’re here to cut their research short with our recommendations for best stoves.

We’ll choose the best 5 and explain why we went with them. No one stove is perfect, and different campers have different preferences and opinions, and we’ll try to address those in our guide below.

Jetboil is a well-known name in the camping stove world, and they offer an entire kit for your cooking and boiling needs out in the wild. Their backpacking stoves have an integrated windshield and integrated canister, and due to their specialized construction they’re extremely efficient, meaning they’ll cook more food or boil more water with less fuel than other, more generalized stoves.

They’re reliable, consistent, have great simmer control and a multitude of accessories like a Skillet or a Grande Coffee Press. With a boil time of 2 m 15 sec, they’re relatively fast and you’ll waste little time getting your water boiled.

As for their downsides, they have to be bought as a kit weighing 14.6 oz, and some ultralight campers might opt for a simpler but lighter option.

MSR’s PocketRocket is a premium-quality ultralight stove. It can operate in all condition environments due to the pressure regulator. Being able to boil water in near freezing weather is important for 4-season campers.

It features a push-start Piezo igniter and has a broad burner head that helps with heat distribution, wind resistance and simmer control. With a boil time of about 3 minutes and a weight of 2.9 oz, this is a decent option for ultralight backpackers.

We can’t really think of any deal-breakers or downsides except that its boil time is a tad longer than some other stoves here; depending on your tempo and how many friends you have hiking alongside you, the 3.3 minute boil time might be too much.

Another Jetboil stove, and this one offers a very specific boon: boil water in 100 seconds. Compared to any other stove, this is extremely fast. Jetboil specifically designed the Flash Cooking System by using specialized materials and optimizing how the flame heats the cooking cup. It’s efficiency and speed are amazing and it only weighs 13.1 oz.

The cooking cup is also thermochromatic, meaning it changes color depending on how hot it gets. Just like the other Jetboil stove on this list, it’s compatible with all the accessories such as the Coffee Press and the FluxRing Fry Pan.

All in all, a great choice for almost everyone going camping except the hardcore ultralight crowd.

The Esbit Pocket Stove, weighing at about 3 oz, is a bit different than every other stove listed here; it uses solid fuel tablets to cook and boil water. It’s the lightest option (and has the lightest fuel), it’s very easy to use and takes up very little space, when fully folded it’s about the same size as a deck of cards.

It isn’t as efficient as some other stoves, and you’re looking at a lengthy 10 minutes or more to boil a liter of water, which is fine if you’re not in a hurry. It’s great for backpackers that have time to spare to cook their food and boil their water; though most ultralight backpackers value speed more than “wasting” time waiting for the water to boil.

The other downside this lightweight backpacking stove has is that the Esbit tablets leave a gummy black tar-like residue on the back of the pot.

The MSR Dragonfly is different from the other stoves on this list due to the fuel it uses. This 14.1 oz stove uses white gas or kerosene, meaning that it can be used pretty much anywhere, and in any weather conditions. Backpackers that expect some extreme conditions such as freezing temperatures or high wind are going to get the most out of this stove.

Most other propane stoves start to fail or sputter near 0° F, and the DragonFly will keep burning. The white gas and kerosene are a bit cheaper than propane, meaning you’ll save a bit of money along the way (all the fuel is very similarly priced, meaning you won’t save more than $5 per year).
The average boil time is a bit lengthier compared to some other stoves, and it sits at 3 to 4 minutes depending on the fuel used.

The downside is that it’s a bit bigger and heavier than the other stoves here, though in colder climates, there’s no other stove that’s this dependable. The other downside is that it is loud.

Just like everything else in life, you need to learn what your needs are and find a products that fits the bill. We’ll go over the most important parameters that help us choose which cooking system to carry with us, depending on how far we’re going, if we’re going ultralight or if we’re going camping with family, on a hike or a through-hike.

This is a widely debated topic online. In short, the shorter the boil time, the better and more efficient the stove is and you’ll save more time on your treks. The more efficient the stove is, the less fuel you have to carry. Some hikers aren’t as concerned with boil time and are more concerned with weight, fuel weight or budget.

Depends on the camper and the purpose of the camping trip/hike; if you’re trying to beat the clock or your own record, going with a very fast, very efficient stove is the way to go. If you’re out on the trail with your family and time isn’t at the forefront of your mind, you can get a stove that isn’t defined by its boil time.

Last but not least, regular propane backpacking stoves might not work in very low temperatures. Your needs might change depending on if you’re going hiking or mountaineering.

Our recommendation? If everything else between two great options is pretty equal, always take the faster, more efficient stove. If you’re making coffee or meals for a lot of fellow campers, you’d want to spend as little time as possible on that task.

Weight is an important parameter, especially when you have to lug the load around mountains and trails. Depending on what level of weight you’re comfortable with, some backpacking stoves might be a better fit than others, regardless of their utility.

For example, ultralight backpackers are mostly going to choose light and small stoves like the MSR Pocket Rocket, while more casual campers will choose the Jetboil line of products. Neither of them is making a mistake; they’re just choosing different products best suited for their needs.

Most quality stoves and cooking systems are from $50-$100, and they’re worth every penny. They’re usually a one-time purchase because they last quite a while.

Lower quality stoves are often a gamble that serious campers shouldn’t make with their gear. There’s nothing worse than not being able to make a cup of coffee or a meal on the trail.

Most backpacking stoves are exceptionally easy to use, and some campers prefer stoves with integrated lighters and good simmer control. These small quality of life improvements make the trip enjoyable; and these systems of redundancy let you have a fire even if you forgot your matches.

In short, turn the valve a little bit and spark the ignition. If you’re unconvinced, borrow one from a friend and try it out in your home. Coffee brewed in a canister stove has a slightly different, stronger taste you might like.

Backpacking stoves are very safe, with propane stoves being the safest of the bunch; even in hot and dry conditions you’re not likely to start a forest fire by accident. The flame is small, very hot and controlled, and even if you have the misfortune of accidentally kicking your stove over there’s very little chance it could cause an uncontrolled fire.

If you’re being reckless and not following any safety precautions, there’s a high chance you could accidentally start a forest fire. Always be serious when working with open flames in the wild (and at home).

In short, Propane Canisters cost from $15-$20, while a pack of Esbit tablets goes for about $8. The average price for a gallon of kerosene is about $0.80 around the world (it’s the cheapest option).

Consider what fuel you’re using and how efficient your stove is. While an Esbit stove costs little, the cost of the fuel tablets can quickly stack up due to their price and inefficiency (high boil times).

Hikers that aren’t bothered with the loud cooking of a kerosene stove can enjoy the most economic option, but in our opinion you can’t beat propane for ease of use, commonality and weight.

In short, backpackers usually opt for propane canisters or fuel tablets, while regular campers usually go for propane, kerosene and some other fuel source in a bigger canister.

There are many camping grounds and trails that ban the use of campfires due to forest fire risks, and the Leave No Trace principles don’t agree with making campfires outside of designated areas. It is usually illegal to cut wood down for firewood, and wood that’s already dead is often used as shelter or a home to many animals and insects.

To reduce our impact on the trail, campers are encouraged not to make natural fires, and if they do, to do it in a very controlled manner like having a fire pan, bringing their own firewood from a local store and using an existing fire pit.

It’s much easier to bring your own stove.

Many people ask this question expecting that they’ll need to bring an extra fuel canister on their short trip. The truth is that most fuel containers and canister stoves have a lot more fuel than what you’ll use on your one or two-day camping trip. Best quality stoves have this statistic displayed, and they usually boil about 15 liters of water per one canister.

As a rule of thumb bring enough fuel to boil one liter of water per person, per meal. For example, the three of you will need 3 liters of water for 3 meals: meaning you’ll need to bring enough fuel to boil 9 liters of water per day. A single person can go camping for 5 days with a canister stove that boils 15 liters of water.

Strong winds and gusts extinguish flames, and they might sometimes prevent you from turning your stove on and keeping it on. Besides blowing the stove’s flame off, they blow away the heat that’s meant for your pot. This reduces the efficiency of your stove and wastes your fuel.

Windshields are cylindrical pieces of aluminum or plastic that shield your stove from the wind. They have a large gap for a reason, you have to leave it open so that your backpacking stoves can cool down. If you “wrap” the windshield around your stove, you might make it overheat and explode.

Some campers prefer not to bring a canister stove at all and pack their clean water and dry food (not dehydrated food that requires cooking). They’re usually only staying a night or two in the great outdoors and will be back home soon, and they might opt out of using a stove.

These are usually ultralight campers that are looking to save every possible gram and this is not recommended for beginners; beginners usually over-pack but have a comfortable enough time, and then they discard some pieces of gear they didn’t need.

For beginners, spending a considerable time in the wild is sometimes a stressful affair. You’ll get cold, dirty, hungry and grumpy. That cup of coffee or tea will calm your nerves and ground you, and that’s why we suggest that you leave the “no stove/no fire” to the experts and veteran hikers.

A good backpacking stove is a great investment that will keep your hikes and camping trips carefree. While not as important as a great pair of boots, a quality tent, a good sleeping bag and quality trail food, having a top quality stove will make your life easier in the great outdoors.

Worst case scenario, if your stove breaks down you can make a small fire from fallen dry branches and leaves, though we’d advise you head home and come back to the trail later if possible. If we honor the treks and respect the Leave No Trace principles, the beautiful nature we love will still be there for our kids and their kids to enjoy.

We hope that you’ve learned a thing or two and that you can now go out and buy a quality camping stove that’ll serve you well.

If you found this resource useful and know someone that might use a tip or two about hikers stoves, please share it with them via social media or send them a link.

Snowshoeing is a great way to experience the beauty of winter and the snow firsthand. It is suitable even for beginners of any age and fitness level. If you can walk, you can snowshoe. However, if you are a beginner it may be difficult to figure out where to start. This guide will help you learn everything you wanted to know about snowshoeing, show you how to choose snowshoes and inspire you to finally go on a snow hiking adventure. Here are some tips you should keep in mind before you head into the mountains.

A snowshoe is a piece of footwear necessary for walking over snow. These shoes keep you afloat on the snow and help you not sink by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area. Larger surface area means that you have more snow supporting your body weight from below than you’d have if you were just wearing a regular hiking shoe.

Snowshoes come in a variety of types and sizes, and to choose the right pair you need to consider a few things. The most important is choosing the them according to what you are going to be using them for. There are three main types:

• Recreational snowshoes are for those that just want to walk around a groomed trail in your area. These are simpler designs and won’t need strong traction. They are usually the cheapest snowshoes you can buy, but not very versatile.
• Backcountry snowshoes are the upgraded version of recreational models. Each and every single feature of backcountry snowshoes is better. They’re commonly built of premium materials that can withstand more abuse and harsher conditions. Backcountry snowshoes have stronger traction and better bindings to hold larger winter boots.
• Racing snowshoes are designed for flat terrain, usually with more tightly packed snow. These are shorter and narrower that other models, which makes it easier to keep a more natural running stride.

Snowshoes are sized by their overall length, measured in inches. The size you’ll get mostly depends on your weight – the more you weigh the deeper you’ll sink in the snow. If you weigh more you’ll need a longer snowshoe, giving you better floatation. Manufacturers give recommended load for each snowshoe. For example, for Redfeather, 20″ youth models go up to maximum of 80 pounds, 21″ snowshoes go up to 125 pounds, 22″ go up to 150 pounds, 25″ are rated up to 175 pounds, 30″ shoes go up to 220 pounds, and 35 or 36″ are rated for over 220 pounds. You can find all the information on products listed on our website, so make sure to always check the specs. Have in mind that load recommendation is for both you and your gear.

Gender also plays a part in picking the right pair. Women tend to take narrower steps than men, so the tail on a woman snowshoe is usually narrower. Snowshoes for women are also made to accommodate a narrower boot.

Snow conditions you’ll be hiking in are an important factor for choosing the right size. For hiking on powdery snow, breaking trail or going off trail a lot, you might consider sizing up to a larger snowshoe. But for beginners, mostly going on trails, hard packed snow smaller options are the best.

There are a few things to look at to make sure you’ve picked the best snowshoe for your situation. The first thing to consider is the binding, the straps that keep a snowshoe attached to your boot. It should be comfortable, easy to put on and off, and easy to adjust even with the gloves on.

Next part to consider is how the binding is attached to the frame. It affects how the tail flips up, so it should be flexible and of good quality, allowing the tail to shed the snow as you walk.

On the bottom of a snow shoe you will find crampons. They provide traction if you are doing country snowshoeing with icy areas, or wherever you need lots of traction. Whether you have a recreationalist pair or something more geared towards mountaineering, crampons are essential for being able to walk confidently forward.

MSR is not only famous for their high-performance backpacking tents. The impressive range tailored for any kind of snowshoeing and any terrain makes MSR snowshoes the favorite choice of professionals, mountaineers and everyday explorers alike. They offer an unbeatable, lightweight combination of strong traction, unrelenting reliability and adaptability to suit any winter adventure.

Located in La Crosse, Wisconsin, Readfeather are of the few brands that are completely handcrafted in the USA. They were the first to introduce the V-Tail design in 1988, and also among the first to produce shoes specifically built for women and a snowshoe just for kids.

Readfeather Hike Snowshoes sport a simplified design that is versatile and well-suited for recreational hiking in the snow. The powder coated aluminum frame provides strength and endurance, while Rip Stop Vinyl deck is resistant to punctures and abrasions. This model comes in is four different sizes that accommodate for weight, height and the depth of the snow.

Perhaps the most interesting it the line of Redfeather Kids’ Snowshoes. The SnowPaws line is designed for children age 3-7, very lightweight and easy to take on and off, with flexible and secure bindings. Plastic shoes shaped like bear claws will give kids plenty of fun time leaving foot prints in the snow.

If you want more information about these and other Redfeather snowshoes, go to our Readfeather snowshoes and snowshoeing gear page.

Atlas Snow-Shoe Company is best known for their patented Spring-Loaded Suspension that has made snowshoeing comfortable, fun and extremely enjoyable for beginners and experts alike. This is just one of over thirteen Atlas snowshoe patents, including include the heel cleat patent, the contoured footbed, and the switchback harness. Atlas aim to deliver the most technically advanced, high performance snowshoes available today.

Founded in 1906 in Norway, Tubbs is the leading manufacturer of lightweight, versatile snowshoes for men, women and kids. They started by crafting snowshoes from fine white ash wood, and now specialize in both traditional aluminum and modern composite pieces, raising the bar for innovative snowshoe designs.

If you are an absolute beginner it is probably better to rent shoes for your first snowshoeing. Many resorts and gear shops rent them to those who’d like to try them out. But if this is an activity you will be doing regularly, or if you live in a snowy climate and spend most of your winter exercising indoors, it might be a good idea to buy your own pair of snowshoes and enjoy all the benefits of hiking in the snow.

When renting or purchasing, it’s crucial to be aware of the type of terrain you’d like to explore to choose the appropriate type of snowshoe for your adventure.

The golden rule of going into the mountains, regardless of the activity and season, is to be prepared for all situations. Dressing in layers is a life-saver in changing weather conditions. Base layers that are close to your body, mid layers to serve as insulator and keep you warm, and waterproof outer layers to protect you from the elements, like wind and rain or snow, all of these are equally important. Also be sure to have a hat, neck cover, and pair of gloves.

Aside from the right snowshoes and proper clothing, there almost no other gear you need for hiking in the snow, other than trekking poles. Poles help you keep the balance and increase your stability and efficiency on uneven terrain. If you use trekking pole make sure that there are snow baskets on them that will keep your pole form sinking down into the snow.

To keep the snow out of the tops of your boots or shoes you will need gaiters for snowshoeing. They provide a good seal around your boots, which sloughs off any snow that might otherwise go down your boots, helping your feet to stay dry when you’re out in the snow.

Water bottle or a hydration pack is a must, starting with start with 2+ liters per person for the day. Optionally you can bring a thermos full of hot tea, coco, or soup, this will definitely make a stop more enjoyable.

Snowshoeing burns a lot of calories, so bring some high protein, natural snacks that can help you restore your energy such as granola bars, dried fruit, nuts, and jerky.

In the winter months the sun sets in the late afternoon, so having a light source like a flashlight or head lamp is easily and safely find your way back if you find yourself on the trail after sundown.

Sunglasses are important in the summer, but they are even more important in the winter, as snow reflects high levels of harmful UV rays that can distort your vision and irritate your retinas. Be sure to choose a pair of sunglasses that provides full coverage.

The list of reasons why you should go snowshoeing as often as you can is very long, but here are our top 5:

1. 1. Snowshoeing is easy
      It is just like, well, taking a walk. There is no special technique, once snowshoes are strapped to your feet, all you need to do is start walking naturally, maybe widen your stance a bit. Going up an incline or down the slope might need some getting used to, but on the flat ground it is
   2. Everyone can do it
      This is one of the rear winter activities that individuals of any age and fitness level can participate in. Even those with injuries or health concerns can slowly walk on snow without struggling so much. Snow is known to act like a cushion, which absorbs bumps and shocks.
   3. It is the best winter exercise
      In our book any outdoor activity beats exercising in a smelly sweaty gym by a longshot. And snowshoeing is one of the easiest – you just have to grab your winter boots, get dressed appropriately, grab your snow shoes and get outside. It is a low impact activity, yet still provides a great cardio workout. According to Snowsports Industries of America, snowshoers can burn more than 45 percent more calories than walking or running at the same speed.
   4. Snowshoeing is affordable
      Other than snowshoes and you winter clothing, depending on the conditions, there is not much to invest in when you want to take on this activity. You can find a pair of good snowshoes between a hundred and $300, which makes it one of the least expensive winter sports that you can participate in.
   5. You can pretty much go anywhere
      It definitely takes effort to hike up and down hills, but the snow shoes are small enough and agile enough to pass over all kinds of natural obstacles like rocks, boulders, logs, and underbrush and makes it really convenient to explore deeper into the backcountry.

If you are a first-time snowshoer, stick to the trail. Go with someone who is more experienced and pace yourself. Taking a class or going on a tour can offer great opportunities to learn concepts like how to go up and down hills, traverse slopes, use your poles, and how to get up after you fall in deep snow.

If you are the person that tends to nestle inside their cozy home at the first signs of winter, we strongly recommend that you give snowshoeing a try. If there is an activity that can change how you feel about an entire season, this is the one. There is nothing like a feeling of walking over fresh snow with everything around you so peaceful and white. The only thing you need to experience it is the right clothing and the right snowshoeing gear, and we hope this guide will help you get it.

From keen campers to backcountry backpackers, everyone knows how important a good night’s sleep is. It is essential for restoring your physical health after a long hard day, as well as restoring mental health and putting you in good spirits. The secret of being warm and comfy on your outdoor adventure lies in picking the right sleeping bag.

Camping sleeping bags are generally more geared towards comfort than the lightweight packing ability. That is why they are heavier and bulkier than backpacking sleeping bags, but they are often more affordable as well. However, even if you are car camping, it is still important that your sleeping gear doesn’t take up too much space. After all, the more you can bring with you to make your camping adventure comfortable and enjoyable, like chairs, lamps or stoves, the better. That is why our choice focuses on sleeping bags that will keep you warm and comfy at night, but also reduce weight in your pack.

It is practically impossible to single out THE best sleeping bag when there is so much that needs to be taken into the account. Based on our experience and the experience of our customers we have made a selection of sleeping bags that we can personally recommend for sleeping in a camping tent or outside, based on several different criteria.

Before we move on with the reviews, here is a list of things you need to look at when purchasing the best camping bag:

• Shape – The shape of your sleeping bag depends on your style of camping. There are three main shapes: Mummy bags, Rectangular and Semi-Rectangular, or Tapered. In addition there are Double sleeping bags designed to accommodate two grown-ups inside comfortably.
• Temperature rating – Sleeping bag temperature ratings is supposed to represent the lowest temperature at which a sleeping bag can be used. However, the rating numbers and their real-world meaning can vary widely from one manufacturer to another, so it should be used as a general guideline, not as a rule.
• Fill / Insulation – Sleeping Bags are either filled with Down or with Synthetic insulation, each one has its own strengths and weaknesses.
• Weight and Packing – For camping bags, the weight is not the decisive factor, especially if you are car camping. However, if you are also backpacking and you plan to use one bag for both activities, choose a lighter backpacking style.
• Specialty features – Some bags have additional features that enhance their functions, like draft tubes and collars, sleeping pad loops and straps, or stretch panels.

The North Face is known for their tried-and-true camping gear, tested both in laboratories and on expeditions around the world. They have an excellent range of sleeping bags for cold and warm weather, and one of our favorites is the Green Kazoo.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Mummy
• Temp Rating: 0° (15F Comfort; 1F Limit; -38F Extreme)
• Insulation Fill: 700 fill ProDown
• Shell Fabric: 20D Nylon Ripstop
• Liner Fabric: 20D Nylon Taffeta
• Weight: 3 lbs 15 oz (Regular)
• Length: 71.5″ (Regular)
• Width: Shoulder 61″; Hip 59″; Foot 41″
• Stuffsack Size: 10″ x 19″

The Green Kazoo is a good classic 0 degree sleeping bag, insulated with water-resistant 700 fill power down, which makes for the perfect balance of cost and weight and space savings. The mummy shape, with a well-stuffed fitted hood, is perfect for keeping you snuggled and toasty, and a beefy draft collar that runs 360 degrees around keeps the warm air inside even if you move around.

It feels pretty spacious in the shoulder and chest area, though a bit tight around the thighs, as reported by side sleepers. The bag features an oversized vaulted foot box, and a small chest pocket along the draft tube.

A stiffened piece of black fabric tape running along both sides of the zipper is designed to prevent the zipper from getting stuck in the shell fabric, but it is not too effective, so you still have to be careful when zipping up. The bag features a double zipper, which is a really nice feature on a 0-degree bag because it lets you adjust and vent your feet, waist, or torso if you use the bag in warmer temperatures.

The North Face Green Kazoo is a good value when compared to other significantly more expensive cold-weather sleeping bags. It comes with a compression sack and storage sack, and the compression-optimized fill accounts for a smaller packed size, making the bag 10% more compressible. There is also a women’s version of the Green Kazoo, which is rated for 5 degrees.

Alps Mountaineering is a company known for some very high-end camping gear, including sleeping bags that offer superior quality, warmth-to-weight ratio, insulation and compressibility that many others. On the other hand, they do come with the price that  is often not acceptable for occasional family camping trips.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Mummy
• Temp Rating: 20°
• Insulation Fill: TechLoft Silver insulation
• Shell Fabric: Polyester Ripstop
• Liner Fabric: Polyester
• Weight: 3 lbs 12 oz
• Length: 80” (Regular)
• Width: 32”  (Regular)
• Stuffsack Size: 11″ x 20″

That is why Alps came through, being one of the top outdoor companies, and created a line of sleeping bags that are affordable but maintain the signature quality. Alps Blaze is one of those sleeping bags. Constructed with a durable, polyester ripstop shell with a soft, polyester liner, Alps Blaze is durable, comfortable and waterproof.  The TechLoft Silver synthetic insulation consists of multiple denier staple-length fibers that have a siliconized finish for maximum insulation, loft, and compactness.

Two-layer off-set construction features a contoured hood and mummy shape, helping to seal in your warmth. There is also an insulated chest and zipper baffle for added heat retention.

The temperature rating is 20 degrees, and we found that this bag will in fact keep you warm in these temperatures, if you are not too cold of a sleeper.

The Alps Blaze comes in two sizes: Regular (32″ x 80″) with a stuff sack size 11″ x 18″, and XL (36″ x 86″) with the stuff sack size of 11″ x 20″. This is a great bag for the price, but considering it is decently bulky and heavy it is much more suited for campsite that for backpackers.

Being tall makes find the right outdoor gear a challenge, and those who are bigger than an average person often find mummy bags to be to constricting. The well known outdoor gear brand Eureka boast their own sleeping bag for big guys Eureka Kiewa, which is wide, comfortable and warm. The long version of this sleeping bag, featuring the roomy 3D foot box, accommodates a person up to 6’ 6”. The tapered rectangular shape offers plenty of room, yet it packs down to a compact size.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Semi-Rectangular
• Temp Rating: 20°
• Insulation Fill: Eureka! Synthesis synthetic fibers blend
• Shell Fabric: 40D/290T Polyester Taffeta
• Liner Fabric: 50D/300T Peached Polyester
• Weight: 3 lbs 10 oz
• Length: 78″
• Width: 33″
• Stuffsack Size: 9.5″ x 18″

The insulation of the Eureka Kiewa sleeping bag is a proprietary blend of synthetic fibers, called Eureka! Synthesis technical insulation, engineered to optimize thermal performance, but also be lightweight, compressible, and resilient. The lining is made of comfortable, warm-to-touch peached polyester.

Though it is rated to keep you warm in below freezing temperatures, it tends to run a bit cold, so we recommend adding a fleece liner if you’ll be camping in colder seasons.

Eureka Kiewa features a full length zipper, so you can unzip it all the way and use it as a quilt. This bag comes with a compression stuff sack, but some of our customer were not content with its quality. This should not be a problem, as there are plenty of compression sacks that are excellent and affordable as well.

Although this is not the biggest sleeping bag available, it deserves a place on this list as it is very difficult to find a bag that is spacious but also lightweight and compact, comfortable and warm, high quality but affordable. And Eureka Kiewa ticks all the boxes.

Nemo Sonic 0 Sleeping bag is a cold-weather sleeping bag that you can comfortably use even in warmer weather thanks to the couple of features that greatly expand the comfort zone of its temperature rating. This is a classic mummy bag, but it includes stretch construction at the knee level, as well as wider foot box, which allows side sleeping and makes the bag less restrictive.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Mummy
• Temp Rating: 0F
• Insulation Fill: 800 FP Down
• Shell Fabric: 20D Nylon Ripstop w/ DWR
• Liner Fabric: 30D Nylon Taffeta w/ DWR
• Weight: 3 lbs
• Length: 78″ (Regular)
• Width: Shoulder 61″; Hip 58″; Foot 53″
• Stuffsack Size: 15.5″ x 8″

The bag is insulated with PFC-free, responsible down standard certified, 800 fill power hydrophobic down. The outer shell is 20 denier ripstop-nylon, treated with a DWR coating as moisture protection. The foot box is made from Nemo’s Osmo waterproof breathable fabric, which is a welcome innovation, as the foot box is usually the first to get damp if it rubs against the walls of your tent.

To protect warm air from exiting, or cold air from creeping in, the bag features a draft collar with Velcro closure and two draft tubes on the zipper. It also has a countered hood with a drawstring that allows you to tighten it up in cold weather to improve heat retention.

Nemo Sonic features integrated “gill” vents that come in handy when the temperature rises. The two zippered opening on the front are positioned to release heat effectively from your core.

Nemo Sonic sleeping bags come in both regular and long size, they feature top of the line materials, and innovative design features. It also comes with a stuff sack and a great compression sack, making Nemo Sonic a complete package. It is one of the more expensive sleeping bags, so it might not be the right choice if you are camping just for fun, but if you feel like going on adventures and mountaineering expeditions, this kind of bag is worth taking a look at.

Cedar Ridge is a brand under the Alps Mountaineering umbrella, developed to fill a void in the market for family-friendly gear at the price point acceptable for beginners. The Cedar Ridge line of products include easy-to-use tents, sleeping pads and bags.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Rectangular
• Temp Rating: 25°
• Insulation Fill: Synthetic hollow-fiber insulation
• Shell Fabric: 190T polyester
• Liner Fabric: 190T polyester
• Weight: 4 lbs 12 oz
• Length: 78”
• Width: 33”
• Stuffsack Size: 5″ x 20″

The Rockbridge is a classic rectangle sleeping bag with two-layer construction, rated at 25°.  Both the outer shell and the liner are made of 190T polyester material, which is very durable and easy to maintain. A hollow-fiber synthetic insulation will keep you warm in near freezing temperatures.

The bag is very roomy and rectangular shape allows for a lot of movement and various sleeping positions.  The zipper allows you to zip multiple bags together so you can get one very large blanket. It comes with a standard stuff sack, and what’s most important it, at under $60, the price is incredibly low for the level of quality this bag offers.

Coleman is known for quality and durable camping equipment, and this mummy style kids’ sleeping bag is no exception. Not only is it beautifully designed, it is constructed with lightweight Coletherm, hollow polyester insulation to keep your little one warm in temperatures as low as 30°F, though we would recommend using it above 40F.

Full Specs:

• Shape: Mummy
• Temp Rating: 30°
• Insulation Fill: Coletherm® hollow polyester
• Shell Fabric: Polyester Taffeta.
• Liner Fabric: Polyester Taffeta.
• Weight: 3 lbs
• Length: 66”
• Width: 26”
• Stuffsack Size: /

Many sleeping bags for kids that can be found in department stores are not the best choice for camping. They are very colorful and feature all kinds of cartoon characters, but they are only suitable for sleepovers at a friend’s house, not for sleeping in a tent.

The Coleman Blue Bandit is small and compact but with a decent quality weather rating for early and late season adventures. It is also very easy to maintain, it can be machine washed and dried. It fits kids up to five feet tall, so it can be used for many years until your child is ready to upgrade to an adult-sized sleeping bag.

In general, a sleeping bag for camping should offer enough room to stretch and roll over, so rectangle shape is common choice. However some campers might like the more snug fit, or want a bag that can fit into a backpack, and there are plenty of tapered or mummy bags suitable for family camping. The shape of the camping bag is a matter of preference.

Rectangular – This is a classic shape most of us are familiar with. It is great for family camping, car camping and anyone who wants a lot of room to spread out and be comfortable. These are really great multi-use sleeping bags, they can be spread open and used as a blanket and are generally a great low-cost option for family campers. The down side is that rectangle bags tend to be on the heavier side and not as compressible as other options.

Mummy – This type of bag is wider around the shoulder and tapers in to the feet, and it also features a hood that can be cinched. The Mummy shaped bag is a golden standard for backpackers as it’s taking out all of the extra fabric and fill, and it fits snuggly around your body for the maximum heat retention.

Semi-rectangular – Also known as tapered, or barrel shape, this is a happy medium between the two previous ones. They have a wider shoulder area and – tapered footbox to decrease some of the excess air in rectangular bags, but they also provide enough space to move around in a bag and change positions throughout the night.

Double – If you want to go all out and feel as roomy as possible, or you’re looking to snuggle up together on your next camping trip, a double sleeping bag, designed for two people, is a perfect choice.

When choosing the length of your sleeping bag, apply the Goldilocks principle; if the bag that is too short you will be compressing the insulation with your feet, making it less effective, but if the bag is too long, there is too much room that needs to heat up. However, you may consider getting a longer sleeping bag if you plan to use the footbox to store gear that needs to be kept warm, like electronics.

Most men’s sleeping bags come in two sizes: Regular, that fits a person up to 6 feet, and Long, that fits a person up to 6’6”. Some manufacturers also have size Short, for the height up to 5’6”. Women’s bags come in Regular and Long sizes as well. The regular-sized sleeping bag fits people up to 5’ 4” in height, while a long-sized sleeping bags give enough space to people up to 5’10” tall.

There are two types of sleeping bag insulation – goose down and synthetic. Which one is better is the age-old question among backpackers and campers, and it seems like there is no right answer. It depends entirely on where you plan to camp, what temperatures you’ll be camping in, and how you’ll be getting there.

Down Fill is natural insulation made of goose down, often treated for better resisting moisture. It packs down smaller when compared to a synthetic sleeping bag rated to the same temperature. Down sleeping bags are usually labelled with “fill rating”. This is telling how much goose down is put in the bag, and the higher the number, the more insulation there is. Most three-season sleeping bags have a “fill rating” of at least 600, while four-season bags, those designed for true sub-zero weather use, have a fill rating of around 900 – 1000.

Synthetic Insulation is created in lab. It consists of various materials and there are numerous types, with every major camping gear manufacturer having their own proprietary technology. Synthetic sleeping bags are constantly getting improved, and today there is no much weight/bulk differences between a quality goose down bag and a quality synthetic one. Another benefit of the synthetic fill is that it keeps its insulating properties even when it’s wet. Also synthetic sleeping bags can be cleaned simply by tossing them into a large, commercial sized front load washing machine, which you can’t even think about when it comes to down sleeping bags.

Insulation is the soul of the sleeping bag, but in order to choose the right sleeping bag for the conditions, you need to understand materials that the bag is made of. The outer shell is usually made of Ripstop nylon or polyester, which is reinforced and more resistant to both tears and moisture thanks to the heavier threads woven into the material. Cheaper models, may be made of nylon, polyester and taffeta, which are low cost and breathable, and they are often treated for water-repellency. These are no waterproof, and they are best for car camping or general walk-in camping. Materials such as DryClime, Microfiber or Gossamer Micro, are tightly woven, strong and water resistant, though softer than Ripstop.

The lining of a sleeping bag can be made of cotton or cotton flannel, which is natural, breathable and easy to clean and repair, but it traps moisture, so it’s reserved for car camping or campouts in dry environments. Nylon, polyester or taffeta are the most popular lining fabrics, as they are breathable and comfortable, but also reduce moisture absorption.

Temperature rating of your sleeping bag is a major consideration for staying warm. Keep in mind that the source of heat in your sleeping bag is you, so if the bag is too big, or too long, you may sleep colder than the actual rating for the bag. Most of the bags have a temperature rating. Some just have a flat 20 degree, or 15 degree rating, while others have the EN 13537 rating. The EN rating includes the following guidelines:

• Upper Limit – temperature at which an adult man would have a comfortable sleep without sweating. If the temperature rises above, the bag will become too hot.
• Comfort Limit – a rating for women, the temperature at which an adult woman can sleep comfortably in a relaxed position.
• Lower Limit – a rating for men, the temperature rating at which a standard male can sleep for eight hours in a curled position without walking.
• Extreme – This is a temperature rating at which a standard female can remain for six hours without the risk of death from hypothermia. However, this is an extreme survival rating only. It is also regarded as the emergency-last-resort-temperature.

These temperature ratings are a good place to start, but they are not a given. There is lots of other variables to consider when choosing a sleeping bag. The first one to consider is your sleeping pad, which also has its own temperature rating, called the R-value. The higher the R-value, the higher the thermo-efficiency is, which means it is going to insulate you better from the cold ground. It is also very important whether you sleep in a tent, and what kind of tent it is.

The next thing to think about is your metabolism. Some people sleep colder that the others, which means they will probably need a bag with the lower temperature rating to keep the desired level of comfort. Another thing to consider is the amount of clothing that you are wearing.

Have in mind that once you have purchased a sleeping bag, you need to learn, through trial and error, what additional layers you need to sleep comfortably at various ambient temperatures.

Unlike the temperature rating, sleeping bag season ratings are actually quite simple to understand. There are 1,2,3,4 or 5 season ratings and this refers to the minimum temperatures in which the bag can comfortably be used, or the ‘comfort rating’.

• One season sleeping bags are the lowest end of the scale. These bags are generally used indoors or in tropical climates. They are very small and lightweight as they don’t contain much insulation or filling.
• Two-season sleeping bags are the base minimum for most campers and are sometimes known as summer bags. If you are a warm sleeper, you may be able to use a two-season bag for the latter end of spring and the early part of autumn as well as in the summer.
• Three-season sleeping bags are the most common choice for experienced campers. Suitable for all but winter camping these sleeping bags are designed to keep you comfortable in temperatures down to round 0-5 degrees but please check this before as this can differ between brands and models.
• Four-season sleeping bags are designed for those who will be camping all year round or are likely to be in harsher environments such as camping at altitude in the mountains. Temperature range for four-season bags is around 0 to -10 degrees.
• Five-season sleeping bags are not really designed for the general market but for expeditions and use in cold and extreme conditions, as they are suitable for temperatures down as low as -40 degrees.

The best sleeping bag for car camping is not the most lightweight or the most compact one. If you camping trip revolves mostly around your campsite, comfort is the king, so you don’t really have to look at the size of the stuff sack or consider every pound. However, many campers do like the idea of a sleeping bag that can pull a double duty on the occasional backpacking trip, so it is not unreasonable to look at the weight and the compactness of the bag when looking for the best sleeping bag for you. Alternatively, you can check out hammock tents, as one of the most lightweight and backpack-friendly sleeping arrangement.

Specialty backpacking bags can weigh under 2 pounds, and they can pack to 6” x 10” but they are also pretty expensive. The models that are more suitable for camping are usually around 2 lbs 6 oz to little over 3 lbs for mummy bags, and up to 5 lbs for rectangle bags. Of course, even if you are family camping and travelling in a camper, you still don’t want to carry anything to take up too much space. Most modern sleeping bags can be packed down to a decently small size though, and allow you to find that perfect combination of offering plenty of sleeping space, but being compact for packing.

As you could probably see from this lengthy post, choosing the best sleeping bags for camping is a challenge, especially if you are a beginner. Whether you are just planning to go on a family camping adventure for a first time, or you are experienced tent sleeper, browse through our selection of sleeping bags by the best brands in the industry. Feel free to contact us anytime, we would be more than happy to help you make your nights in the great outdoors as comfortable as possible.

A hunting knife is a mandatory hunter’s tool. The trusty blade has been with us for thousands of years; it’s more of a tool for field work and building traps than a weapon. A knife is an essential camping companion that helps you whittle wood and make kindling, split branches and prepare your game meat. Choosing the best  hunting knife to take on so many demanding tasks can be overwhelming. Hopefully,this guide will help you make the right decision.

Hunting knives are not like kitchen knives; they’re made out of tougher, more corrosion-resistant steel like stainless steel or even titanium. They also have a different, more robust design that makes them good for doing little chores around the camp. They’re also specifically designed to help you with preparing your game, and have a well-defined purpose that makes them a unique tool on your toolbelt.

Now, a good knife is a versatile tool, but unless you’re using a multitool or a Swiss Army Knife, you shouldn’t misuse your knife for camp tasks that don’t involve piercing or slicing something. It’s strongly recommended to bring other tools for other jobs.

Picking the “best of” anything is not easy, especially if it’s something that mostly depends on personal preference. Best hunting knife is one of those items. Ask a hundred different people what is their favorite blade to take on a hunting trip, you will get a hundred different answers.

There is a lot of choices and it obviously depends on what you’re going after, whether it’s a big game like moose, or you are hunting smaller game such as rabbits and so forth. We have tried to made a list that includes some of the best knives from several categories, as well as good old all-around classics, like Buck knives.

The folding knife is also known as a Jackknife; it was popularized by sailors about 400 years ago, but was used for thousands of years. What the folder loses in durability and robustness, they make up for it in being very portable and easy to pack, as there is no need to bring an extra sheath to put a folder into.

One of the legendary folding knives is Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter, created in 1963, and still one of America’s best-selling knives. Classic folding design has a clip point blade made of 420HC steel hardened by a heat treat process pioneered by industry famous, Paul Bos. The crescent tip makes the blade thinner with a sharper point, which provides good control for detail work and cutting in tight places. 

Built to be super lightweight, weighing only 1.67 oz, 15200ORG Altitude is very simple, but incredibly functional and durable hunting knife. It features CPM-S90V steel blade and unique carbon fiber micro inlays for dexterity and control you usually don’t get in skeletonized knives. It also has some jimping down the spine of a blade and on the handle.

This is not a heavy-duty large game hunting knife, but it is an excellent choice for everyday use and a hunter who counts every ounce. You can also use it for a meal-prep, or as a backup bushcraft type of blade.

Buck Pathfinder 105 is another proof that this company has absolutely perfected this classic hunting and skinning knife design. This is a very good all purpose hunting knife, with overall length of 9, and a 5” long blade made out of 420HC steel. It also features a hollow ground edge, which works very well when performing general outdoor cutting tasks, like cutting twine and rope. The handle is composed of black Phenolic fitted with an aluminum finger guard and buck hat.

The Buck Pathfinder is and impressive hunting knife with robust design and sturdy construction, and while it cannot be used for hard chopping or batoning, it can pretty much be used for any other outdoor chore.

A hunting fillet knife is really similar to your regular kitchen fillet knife and has a similar purpose. Fillet knives are precise, they’re generally used for filleting/deboning fish and fowl, and deboning carcasses. You shouldn’t use fillet knives for bigger game like deer to field-dress (other knives do that better), but any fisherman knows how important having a good fillet is.

Rapala Fillet Knives, made by Marttiini, are a gold standard of fishing knives, and they come in different sizes, from 6”to 9”. These knives are extra sharp, and they also come with a little hand sharpener to touch it up. Progressively tapered, flexible, full-tang blade of European stainless steel that takes and holds an ultra-sharp edge is securely anchored in legendary engraved birch handle.

A gut hook is a small hook at the end of the blade that helps you remove the skin of an animal. The skinning knife is often called a “guthook knife”, but you can skin game with other knives too. The gut hook practically “unzips” the carcass and lets you field dress in no time. This type of knife is also very good at cutting ropes or other material.
Buck 393 Omni Hunter is a great skinning knife. The guthook works great and the shape of this knife does most of the work when skinning a big game animal. The 4″ 420HC stainless steel blade holds an edge really well while dressing, and the curved handle features grip ridges for easy handling. If you pick Buck Omni Hunter as your go-to field knife, you will not be disappointed

Properly sharpening your knives keeps them usable and reliable. Before you grab your best, newest hunting knife, practice sharpening your old kitchen knives. Get a whetstone or a knife sharpening kit and sharpen away. After sharpening the blade, hone it by using an old leather belt or a ceramic rod.

After you bring your kitchen knifes to a razor sharp cut, you’re ready to sharpen and maintain your own knife. If you’re feeling unsure about sharpening your own knife, there’s no shame to send it off to a professional knife sharpening service. For your own personal knives, it’s almost impossible to ruin the knife and sharpening your own knives is a nice skill to have. Don’t be scared to experiment.

Here are few tips how to keep your knife sharp and in great condition for a long time:

1. Regularly sharpen you knife. A dull blade could get you hurt. A portable camping knife sharpener
2. Never let a wet knife go unattended. Whenever you use a knife, always at least wipe it down after use. Use mineral oil before you store your knife somewhere for a while.
3. You can use vegetable oil instead of mineral oil, it’s fine stopgap solution for about 3 days but it will go rancid and make your knife sticky.
4. Fully clean your folding knives by disassembling them and cleaning each part. You can find guides on Youtube on how to disassemble most knives.
5. After you disassemble your folding knife, apply machine lubricant to the folding mechanism. After you assemble the knife, wipe off any excess oil.

1. Blade – Made out of hardened or stainless steel or titanium.
2. Sharp Edge – The cutting edge of the knife, usually sharpened to a 30 or 40 degree angle.
3. Point – The sharpest point of the knife. There are several popular point designs, like drop point, tanto, etc.
4. Hand Guard – a small piece of protruding metal or a specially designed groove in the knife’s grip. It keeps your hand from slipping and cutting yourself on the blade.
5. Grip – Ergonomic grip that fits in your hand. Usually made out of no slip lightweight polymer or wood.
6. The Butt or Pommel – The rear end of the knife, usually called the butt or the pommel. Do not use it to hammer something.
7. Sheath – Sheath for the knife made out of leather, plastic, metal or polymer. It’ll keep the knife safe from the elements.

Which one’s better? In short, fixed blade knives are naturally more durable, have one less fail point and easier to clean. Most hunters will use fixed blade knives.

Folding knives are both lighter and easier to carry, and some heavy duty modern folders have very robust and safe locking mechanisms. Both knife types bring different benefits and drawbacks to the table, it’s up to the hunter’s personal preference. Both knife types work, and that’s what really matters.

While rules and laws may vary by state and location, most hunters with hunters permits and game tags can take down game with a knife. Primitive weapons like bows, spears and knives have a lot laxer rules compared to firearms.

Hunters often have to deliver the final blow to wounded game with a knife, but be very careful as this is a very dangerous maneuver. Most of the time, knives are used in a camp kitchen or for skinning and field dressing wild game. Hunting with a spear or knife alone is a very dangerous activity (hunting on your own is risky in its own way). Most people who hunt with knives actually hunt with boars with dogs, tire the boar out and then close in for the killing blow.

It’s extremely rare for someone to hunt with just the knife, except when hunting hogs with dogs. The dogs take the game down and hold it down, and the hunter stabs the hog in the lungs. People have been hog hunting with throwing knives, but it is very hard to do. Tony Cascarella took down a 275 lbs boar with three throwing knives back in 1976, and that record still stands.

Most of the time, a knife is used to put a trapped rabbit, bird or other small trapped game out of their misery, kill a severely wounded animal or used to prepare fish. While trapping an animal is the obviously most efficient hunting choice, most states and laws forbid using traps. Hunting these days is mostly a sport and has a lot of rules, and a general idea of fairness towards game.

Despite countless hunters arguing on countless forums, there is no one best knife shape. That’s just like asking what the best car is; the bottom line is that different cars are made for different purposes. Some hunting knives are general purpose, while others are very similar to your kitchen fillet knife. It’s important to use the best knife for the job, depending on what you’re hunting.

For Ducks and Fowl

A thin, flexible and narrow knife blade with a drop point or a sharp point is the best choice for ducks and other birds like pheasants. You can also use fillet knives. Technically, regular hunting knives could also work, but they’re not as precise, flexible and easy to use with fowl, so it’s a much better idea to have a specialized duck knife rather than using a regular, thick hunting knife.

For Deer, Wild Hogs and Big Game

Your regular hunting knife is a great choice for deer, wild hogs and big game; even if it has a thick blade, it’s precise enough to cut the joints and debone a carcass. Drop point knives or knives with a gut hook are your optimal choices here; other points are too narrow.

Fillet knives and narrow blade knives aren’t the best choice here, because big game has a lot of tendons, meat and bones that will strain the flexible blade.

For Fish

This is the easiest question; fillet knives are the best fishing knife to fillet and debone fish. Other narrow knives are also a good choice, but nothing beats a fillet knife. Regular, thick hunting knives aren’t really great at cleaning fish. You can still fillet fish with a thick knife, but it’s very frustrating and time-consuming.

• Keep it sharp
  A sharp knife is a safe knife, because you will use very little force to cut. If you have to force the knife, there’s a high chance you’ll hurt yourself by accident. Try to keep your knives reasonably sharp, and maybe have a knife sharpener with you.
• Don’t use knives on steel
  Don’t use your hunting knives on steel if you can help it. You might be able to cut a very thin sheet of soft metal, pull a nail out, or maybe even cut through a thin fence. You can even penetrate a thin metal sheet wall by throwing your knife at it. Very tough knives can do this, but they’ll always get chipped and damaged, and we strongly recommend that you do not do this.
• Don’t use the knife as a replacement tool
  Don’t use your knife as a hammer, screwdriver or anything else (unless it’s also a multi-tool). Improperly using your knife will damage and chip it, which may eventually break your blade or you getting hurt.
• Never run with a knife
  Just like your mom told you not to run with scissors, you shouldn’t run with your knife unsheathed. It’s rather easy to accidentally slip and fall in the forest, and the emergency room is very far away. Stay safe and keep your knife in the sheath/folded until you’re sitting down, ready to field dress the game, or when you’re safely in camp.
• Falling knives have no handles
  This is a common rule in chef’s kitchens, and it’s doubly important in the woods. If you get cut on your knife, you’re far from civilization. If you accidentally drop your knife, let it fall down before you go searching for it. If your knife fell into some leaves or grass, don’t rush. You might cut yourself on your knife if you frantically start searching for it. Use your lamp and look for the metallic shine, and take your time.
• Don’t throw knives not meant to be thrown
  Can you throw any knife? Yes. But you shouldn’t throw knives not meant to be thrown. Regular knives can ricochet back at you, bend, break or chip. The weight of regular knives is balanced towards the hilt, while the weight of throwing knives is balanced on the front of the blade. Throwing knives feel like throwing darts you can play in most pubs and are safer to use.
• Always whittle and cut away from yourself
  Whenever you use a knife, you should always cut away from yourself; if you cut towards yourself or your hand, you will get cut if your knife slips. And knives do slip often, especially if you’re sharpening sticks or whittling wood, as wood doesn’t have the same texture and toughness and has knots. Always carefully field dress and butcher your game; a carcass has a lot of cartilage, tendons, meat and bone that will all resist your knife’s slicing. Don’t force the knife.
• Don’t baton the knife if possible 
  Lots of full tang thick hunting knives can take it, but we still do not recommend it. You’re damaging your knife and you should’ve brought a saw or an axe. In a survival situation (hopefully you’ll never be in that much trouble), it’s okay to use any tool you have.

If possible, you shouldn’t ever get into a situation where you would need to defend yourself, as hiking is generally very safe. Stay aware, pack bear spray and avoid wildlife. In the case of wildlife or bear attack, your knife won’t do much, but it’s still better than nothing and you should use it, a walking pole or any other means of defense you possibly can.

You can trust that a well-renowned company will make a good, quality product, and all the companies listed here made the cut.

Buck Knives

Some of the best fixed and folding hunting knives are made by Buck Knives. Buck Knives was founded a hundred and twenty-ish years ago in San Diego, California. They were the first big US folding hunting knife manufacturer, and people still call most hunting folding knives “buck knives”. Some of their best products are the good old-fashioned Buck Hunter 110, the full-tang, full size Buck Pathfinder 105 and the modern folding Omni Hunter. Buck also offers a folding fillet knife for fishermen and hunters.

Benchmade

Based in Portland, Oregon, Benchmade was the first company to own and employ a high-power laser cutter, allowing for work with steels too hard to stamp and innovative designs. With its first ten years of manufacturing experience behind it, and by working with world-class custom knife makers like Mel Pardue and Warren Osborne, Benchmade developed a signature business model that involves lending manufacturing processes to custom knife designs. This is where Benchmade stands out, allowing customers to Create their own custom knives using endless configurations of premium materials and personalized lasermarking.

Rapala

Rapala is a world’s largest manufacturer of fishing gear, and they make quality knives for hunters and fishermen. Their fillet knives are very tough, flexible, durable and very corrosion-resistant. These knives aren’t only meant to fillet fish, they’re a great tool to have in the campsite when you’re butchering your game.